Kris Solem on Roomis E. Gloomis (5.10d PG) in Wond...
The North Wonderland (and the Wonderland in general) is the antithesis of the "bumper belay" crags found in Indian Cove. Although flat, approaches are as much as 3+ miles and 1+ hours of hiking. As such, it sees less traffic than most areas of the Park. Those who venture out will be rewarded with some classic obscure lines as well as a respite from the crowds at Hidden Valley and Lost Horse.
Use the Wonderland Trail approach (see below) for Outward Bound Slab, Cool Dome, Hidden Dome, Ellsmere Island and Gilligan's Island.
The Atom Smashers, Hooter Rocks, The Foot, Super Dome, Super Slab, Super Block, Lemon Dome, Lime Dome, The Dunce Cap, Suicide Horn, The Fortress and The Castle lie further north near Willow Hole.
There is also a small cluster of rocks just east of the parking area which include Reggie Dome, Bubba Rock, B-52 Rock and Garage Rock.
Park at the "Key's Corner" Trailhead, 1/2 mile east of Trashcan Rock along Quail Springs Road. This will be on your left at a wide right turn if you are driving from town. Most areas lie to the north and are accessed by the Boy Scout Hiking And Equestrian Trail.
Weather station 9.4 miles from here
310 Total Routes
['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',34],['2 Stars',117],['1 Star',138],['Bomb',4]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wonderland North:
Featured Route For Wonderland North
Hyperion 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a CA
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : Grey Giant
Begin at the left end of the south face and climb a low angle crack (some loose rock) that eventually becomes steeper and arches right underneath a large roof. The crux (11d), protected by a #00 TCU, black alien, or small stopper, entails committing moves to the portion of the crack where the roof begins. From here, underclings and hand / fist jams for 80 ft. lead to the anchors (sustained 5.10).Pitch #2 (5.10) is a short traverse and consists of climbing that is comparable to the la...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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