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Wonderland North

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Atom Smasher Area 
Grey Giant Area 
Middle Kingdom, The 
North Wonderland Approach 
Willow Hole Area 

Wonderland North  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,200'
Location: 34.04098, -116.18582 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 280,578
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jan 3, 2004
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Description 

The North Wonderland (and the Wonderland in general) is the antithesis of the "bumper belay" crags found in Indian Cove. Although flat, approaches are as much as 3+ miles and 1+ hours of hiking. As such, it sees less traffic than most areas of the Park. Those who venture out will be rewarded with some classic obscure lines as well as a respite from the crowds at Hidden Valley and Lost Horse.

Use the Wonderland Trail approach (see below) for Outward Bound Slab, Cool Dome, Hidden Dome, Ellsmere Island and Gilligan's Island.

The Atom Smashers, Hooter Rocks, The Foot, Super Dome, Super Slab, Super Block, Lemon Dome, Lime Dome, The Dunce Cap, Suicide Horn, The Fortress and The Castle lie further north near Willow Hole.

There is also a small cluster of rocks just east of the parking area which include Reggie Dome, Bubba Rock, B-52 Rock and Garage Rock.


Getting There 

Park at the "Key's Corner" Trailhead, 1/2 mile east of Trashcan Rock along Quail Springs Road. This will be on your left at a wide right turn if you are driving from town. Most areas lie to the north and are accessed by the Wonderland Trail.


Climbing Season



Weather station 9.4 miles from here

307 Total Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',34],['2 Stars',115],['1 Star',137],['Bomb',4]
['<=5.6',38],['5.7',41],['5.8',34],['5.9',52],['5.10',103],['5.11',31],['5.12',3],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wonderland North:
Shardik   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   North Wonderland Approach : Bear Island
Route 66   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Gilligan's Island : Mary Ann's Face
The Chief   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   North Wonderland Approach : Reggie Dome
Asian Fever   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   West Mongolia : Asian Fever Buttress
Pops Goes Hawaiian   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   North Wonderland Approach : Reggie Dome
George's Route (aka Binder)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Outer Mongolia : Siberia
A Bull with Gas   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Outer Mongolia : Siberia
Yasmine Bleeth   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Outer Mongolia : Siberia
Dos Chi Chis   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 240'   Outer Mongolia : Siberia
Love Gas   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Outer Mongolia : Siberia
Too Secret to Find   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   North Wonderland Approach : Hidden Dome
Bighorn Dihedral   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Willow Hole Area : Suicide Horn Rock
No Self Confidence   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Grey Giant Area : Flying Fortress
Natural Selection   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Grey Giant Area : The Fortress
No Self Respect   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Grey Giant Area : Flying Fortress
The Last Unicorn   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   Willow Hole Area : The Super Dome
Spirited Away   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   Willow Hole Area : The Dunce Cap
Hyperion   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 180'   Grey Giant Area : Grey Giant
Ionic Strength   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Atom Smasher Area : Atom Smasher Boulders
Hydra   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Willow Hole Area : The Super Block
Browse More Classics in Wonderland North

Featured Route For Wonderland North
"The S Cracker". Photo by Blitzo.

The S Cracker 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Tombstone
The obvious S shaped crack on the east side of the Tombstone. If you follow the standard approach along the west side of the Grey Giant, this route will be just out of view on the left flank of the Tombstone.Climb up easy rock to a bolt, then move right into the crack. Set some thin gear for a sequency, traversing crux. Soon the crack angles straight up and eases a bit, but a second crux comes near the top: thin laybacking with tricky gear on perfect rock. A compelling line, with strenuous c...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Wonderland North Slideshow Add Photo
Spadefoot Toad, near Willow Hole. Nice camo. Photo...
Spadefoot Toad, near Willow Hole. Nice camo. Photo...
Sunset from the trailhead. PHoto by Blitzo.
Sunset from the trailhead. PHoto by Blitzo.
Wonderland North sunset
Wonderland North sunset
New Jersey Dome and Brownie Girl Dome Domes
New Jersey Dome and Brownie Girl Dome Domes
Desert oasis in the north Wonderland
Desert oasis in the north Wonderland
Moonrise over Wonderland North
Moonrise over Wonderland North
Beauty
Beauty
Wonderland-North. Photo by Blitzo.
Wonderland-North. Photo by Blitzo.
The Wonderland Trail. Photo by Blitzo.
The Wonderland Trail. Photo by Blitzo.
New Jersey Dome Photo by Blitzo.
New Jersey Dome Photo by Blitzo.
The Techulator
BETA PHOTO: The Techulator
J-tree in bloom. Photo by Blitzo.
J-tree in bloom. Photo by Blitzo.
Moving through the dihedral. Photo by Dizz.
Moving through the dihedral. Photo by Dizz.
Another sunset from near Reggie Dome. Photo by Bli...
Another sunset from near Reggie Dome. Photo by Bli...
A small portion of the northern Wonderland as seen...
BETA PHOTO: A small portion of the northern Wonderland as seen...
Nice miniature formation
Nice miniature formation
Super Slab and Super Dome from the east. Photo by ...
Super Slab and Super Dome from the east. Photo by ...
Pernicious Dome
Pernicious Dome
Out in The Wonderland North. Photo by Blitzo.
Out in The Wonderland North. Photo by Blitzo.
Willow Hole. Photo by Blitzo.
Willow Hole. Photo by Blitzo.
Bruce doing some bouldering somewhere deep into th...
Bruce doing some bouldering somewhere deep into th...
Ivory and Timbuktu Towers area. Photo by Blitzo.
Ivory and Timbuktu Towers area. Photo by Blitzo.
The North Wonderland from the south, Joshua Tree N...
The North Wonderland from the south, Joshua Tree N...
Wonderland North. Photo by Blitzo.
Wonderland North. Photo by Blitzo.

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