Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: FA-Paul Ross & Jeff Pheasant FFA-Ed Webster & Russ Clune
Page Views: 1,575 total · 9/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Nov 12, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Bolts were replaced 11/11/2021. Pin on P2 removed but there’s gear placement(s). See comment.

Pitch 1: 5.7r climb the slab to the ledge, double bolt anchor on ledge.

Pitch 2: 5.12 Climb to the right of the anchor with thin gear till you can reach the pin, then make increasingly difficult moves into a hollow flake system. Take your time and place good gear and make an easy mantle onto the top of the flake. Climb with difficulty up and get a good nut, then a bolt. Make a HARD mantel onto a flat shelf. Now climb a shallow corner past three bolts (crux) and (gear, old pin removed) to another suspect flake, protect and move to the anchor, bolt and pin.

Pitch 3: 5.10b Climb up a ramp off the anchor until you can clip the first bolt move right and back left clip a second bolt and continue onto a slab below a shallow corner and the offwidth roof. Careful getting into the offwidth as the gear is less than ideal. This OW is supposed to be 5.9. Tell me if you find it. Thrutch and struggle up the offwidth to easier climbing and a tree belay.

Move the anchor up to the upper Wonder Wall traverse ledge.

Pitch 4: 5.6 Climb up the left side of the pillar to a pine tree belay. Be careful of the stacked death blocks.

Pitch 5: 5.8x

Pitch 6: 5.10a or 5.10d

Location Suggest change

Start below the middle of the wonderwall traverse ledge and maybe 75' to the right of the slime gulley.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles with wide cams for the 3rd pitch (wc 5&6). RP's and lots of nuts.

Photos

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