Women in Love 5.12a
| 3,200 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Various--Ed Webster, Henry Barber FFA 1978 |
| Submitted By: | Peter Beal on Feb 26, 2008 |
| |
Add Photo  Printer View
Description Women in Love, a Joe Cote aid route, is one of the classic crack climbs in the NE. Steep, clean and exposed climbing with airy belays. Ratings go back and forth for the crux pitch--12a is probably appropriate.
Pitch 1. Easy but awkward climbing leads to a fierce thin section (11d). There used to be a tree to get past the last crux. A good ledge is just above. 70'
Pitch 2. Continue up the easier finger crack to an exposed hanging belay in the vicinity of the top of the Beast Flake (5.11b). 70'
Pitch 3. A short section of crack/corner climbing leads to a thin boulder problem past two bolts right on the arete trending left. Finish up an awesomely exposed flake that lands you on the ledge below the tourist overlook. (12a) 70'
Location Off the right end of the long tree-covered ledge, find a nice sloping ledge with an obvious right-leaning finger crack. The best approach is to traverse the ledge across to the route. You can also climb WILD which is two somewhat unevenly protected pitches (11b, 10c)starting left of the Beast.
Protection Plenty of finger-size gear. The route protects really well
| Comments on Women in Love |
|
By john strand
From: southern colo
May 28, 2008
| WAY good. About as good a climb as any in New England. I think the WILD start is also good but a little run-out and maybe dirty now. |
By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
May 31, 2008
| I haven't been on it in 7 years, but the Wild Women start was neither dirty nor run-out at that time. It certainly seems to be the way to start Women In Love.
Put it all together and it's easily one of the best routes on the cliff. Has anyone ever replaced the bolt on the crux pitch. I remember it being old and in a bad location for the free-climbing. It is what it is though, I guess, with former aid routes. |
By Rich Brereton
From: Somerville, MA
Jun 8, 2010
rating: 5.11+
| Both the first and the third pitches have technical, sequence-dependent cruxes that would make Women in Love a proud onsight. I feel the first pitch is the real route crux.
What a great climb! |
By CCliffe
Jul 16, 2011
| Super good climbing. done as wild women, i think better than the prow and just as sustained. lots of pitons/bolts (for just women in love i only placed 3 pieces) and great exposure. |
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 18, 2011
| WOW- sounds kinda fixed now. I barely remember any fixed gear except on the last pitch. |
By Nick L
Oct 9, 2011
| Re fixed gear: only 1 fixed wire low on P1 and 2 pins on P2 (one of which is cracked). Hardly a clip-up... |
By patrick donahue
Jun 30, 2012
| what does this go as for an aid route grade wise? |
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jul 1, 2012
| c2 (easy, expect some awkward placements) second pitch maybe a touch funky, |
|
RSS Feed
35 more...
