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Wolfie and the Scientist 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Hidetaka Suzuki, TR Leonard Coyne, lead (both mid-'80s)
Page Views: 406
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jul 27, 2001
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Description 

This route is actually on a boulder just in front of the Book. From the approach path, veer left just before the rock as for Fat City, Howling at the Wind, etc. A large outcrop called the Tombstone sits just in front of the Book, at the point where one must veer left or right. This climb is on the left edge of the Tombstone, on a 30 foot high rock separated from the main Tombstone by a chimney. Look for the right-leaning, slightly overhanging thin finger crack.

I've seen the route rated anywhere from 5.12b to 5.12d, and since that is essentially uncharted water for me, I've simply called it 5.12. My brother has made clean top-rope ascents of two other 5.12c cracks on or near the Book, and feels that this is harder, so make up your own mind. Pumpy liebacks lead to technical finger jamming with bad feet--an interesting TR problem or a very hard, if short lead.


Protection 

Bring many small stoppers, RPs, and TCUs to lead. To toprope, bring your rack and some longer slings to set up an anchor on top. It's hard to keep the rope from getting stuck in the crack while TRing.



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