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Wolfenstein Rock
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Wolfenstein 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Season: Any
Page Views: 86
Submitted By: Eric Chabot on Apr 20, 2014

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Wolfenstein rock

Description 

Full-length route going up the center of the Wolfenstein buttress w/an awesome sport bolted offwidth 2nd pitch. A great way to sample some Ibex OW/chimney flavor without fear.

P1) Starting on the right side of an overhang, climb cool white rock up moderate terrain (5.9/10a) past widely spaced bolts & some fixed gear (nuts & small cams help with the pucker factor). 2 bolt belay. 45-50m pitch.

P2) Enter the maw, wiggle and squirm up the OW/squeeze chimney. Protect w/nuts and cams until the business starts, commence clipping bolts and somehow moving up. The crux is very well bolted. Bird shit covered jugs inside and outside the chimney signal deliverance for the climber back onto a moderate face. After the chimney, top out and belay off bolts at the very top of the wall. 5.10, another 45m pitch.

Location 

Wolfenstein buttress, the next big buttress right of the Shadow wall, has a small overhang in the center of the bottom of the face. This climb starts to the right of it and is easily reached w/a 5 minute scramble.

Rap w/2 ropes. There is some pretty old tat on top.

Protection 

P1, QDs, nuts, single set of cams.

P2, wide stuff helps for the beginning of the OW (a #5 can be placed, or even a 6). Although the first part of this isn't too hard, the rock quality on this part of the pitch is substandard for ibex and holds were coming off as of 4/14. Middle of the pitch has many close bolts, the hard moves of the OW are very well protected!


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