Mountain Project: Climbing Eagle/Vail/Leadville

Wolcott Crags are an excellent leg-stretching stopping point on any I-70 trip since access is very short and the climbing is varied and interesting. The crags are located above I-70 near the town of Wolcott. These short cliffs are Dakota Sandstone and very good for top ropes and easy trad climbing. There are several bolted sport routes although some of questionable safety due to potential rockfall. The First Tier is five minutes from the road and the Second Tier offers some decent trad and bolted routes for a 20 minute hike. There are some good boulders and camping as well. The south facing crags are often open for climbing all winter long.

Getting There

From I-70 east or west, take the Wolcott/Highway 131 exit and head west on US Highway 6. Approximately 1/2 mile past the Wolcott Yacht Club (great eats and drinks) a small pull-out provides parking for the First Tier. There is a house with large windows on top of this crag. Cross the Eagle River on an old railroad bridge and follow the trails to one of two crags.

For the Second Tier and the boulders, continue on US Highway 6 for a mile or so until you reach a fee camping area. The boulders are right at the parking lot. The Second Tier is above to the west. Find your way across another old railway bridge east of the campsites and follow the tracks west to a trail that heads up the hill to the base of the crag.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wolcott Crags and Boulders:

V0 V0 Boulder Big Ass Boulder

Gonzo V1 Boulder Big Ass Boulder

Black Crack V1 Boulder Big Ass Boulder

V1 V1 Boulder Big Ass Boulder

West Face V1-2 Boulder Big Ass Boulder

V2 V2 Boulder Waterside Boulder

V2 aka Double Crux Deluxe V2 Boulder Big Ass Boulder

North West Corner V2 Boulder Big Ass Boulder

Overtime V4- Boulder, 16 feet Cave Boulder

Penalty Game V4- Boulder, 16 feet Cave Boulder

V5 V5 Boulder Waterside Boulder

V5-6 V5-6 Boulder Big Ass Boulder

V7 V7 Boulder Big Ass Boulder

V8 V8 Boulder, 15 feet Big Ass Boulder

5.9 Crack 5.8 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet The First Tier

Chupacabra 5.9- Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Upper Tier (Bocco Area)

Scarpa Diem 5.9+ Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet Eagle Wall

El Gecko 5.10- Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Upper Tier (Bocco Area)

Top Rope 5.10 5.10 Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet Eagle Wall

Osso Bocco 5.10+ Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Upper Tier (Bocco Area)

Comments on Wolcott Crags and Boulders

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By logan johnson
From: West Copper, Co
Nov 8, 2007

Just an access FYI. The Wolcott crags are on private land. Until now, the homeowner was fine with climbers....But he is selling his house!!!
The new owners may not be as cool, so keep a low profile.

By Bec
From: Vail, CO
Feb 1, 2009

Yeah and be careful - don't go when the Canadian geese are migrating 'cause they leave a lot of crap - literally.

By AllanonJIK
From: Edwards Co
Sep 10, 2011

Area closed.

By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Sep 11, 2011

What other shops will this be available at? Summit Canyon in Glenwood? Can you buy it online?

By AllanonJIK
From: Edwards Co
Sep 18, 2011

Area closed.

By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Nov 4, 2011

Cool, I'll try to get one from them. Also, just so you know, 40% is standard markup for those shops. Thanks for putting this together, psyched to check out some new stuff this winter!

By logan johnson
From: West Copper, Co
Dec 21, 2011

ACCESS UPDATE - The entire Trestle and CMC areas are now off-limits. The house finally sold and the new owners are more than happy to call the cops on climbers and fishermen (even for trespassing on land that is not theirs!).

By Mikie Eaton
From: Grand Junction, CO
May 15, 2012

How much is available to climb now that the Trestle and CMC areas are off limits?

By Chase Devitt
Jun 19, 2012

Has anyone tried to contact the new owners and find out why they're being jerks?? Maybe some of the climbing community leaders (Bag and Pack guys/Apex guys) could try to foster a relationship and salvage the area?

By Mahjoe
Oct 3, 2012

It seems some of the locals in this community where I live seem to enjoy the ambiguity of Wolcott. The ONLY off limit areas are the Trestle and CMC area. Elsewhere, such as the Upper Tier, the Eagle Wall, and Milk Creek are all still good to go and are super fun. I may get some flack for this, but while I respect those that have put up these routes, I also respect that fact that everyone has a right to enjoy them.

I will start to publish what I know about this area, and while some may not like it, I simply say, shut up and climb.

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Wolcott Crags and Boulders

Description

Getting There

The Classics