Devils Lake. Henning Boldt pulling the roof on Woo...
Woger's Woof Wightside is a very tough face climb over the sizeable roof halfway up the wall. To start, either climb up the lower half of Roger's Roof (the rib to the right of the alcove) or climb up out of the alcove itself. Once up to the overhang position yourself to the right of the handcrack in Roger's Roof. Use small fingerholds to pull yourself up past the roof. Continue to the top with challenging face moves.
This is a tough face. I pulled myself over the roof without using the crack and staying about 2-3 feet to the right of it (not using the right corner either). The face just spit me out and I could not see the moves.
I imagine it will repel many others. Maybe I can get some beta on how to do it.
By Isaac Therneau From: Rochester, MN Aug 3, 2008 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a R
To climb this, where does the line go exactly? The most natural line heads straight up the bottom face while occasionally grabbing for the large right hand arete. Going through the roof involved using the arete and left hand side-pulls. The face directly through the roof and above without using the right hand arete or being able to reach Rogers Roof crack seemed more 5.12 than 11.
Thanks for any beta.
By Isaac Therneau From: Rochester, MN Aug 4, 2008 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a R
Did you feel the grade was appropriate for 5.11c? The roof seemed extremely difficult to do in this manner. It's hard to tell with the picture of the female climbing since she is farther to the right than I went. Does anyone know how the original line was meant to be climbed? The way I went felt 5.11 with two very different cruxes. The first was pulling the roof and the second was even harder and involved a complete balance/imagine you can walk up bumps on the rock kinda crux. The second crux felt 5.11c to me, while the first was 5.11.
Thanks again for any beta/thoughts.
By Alex A Mar 29, 2010 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a
It climbs the roof about 2ft right of Rogers roof, the photo of the girl is off route, FA TR Pete Cleveland, Tommy D, did lead this, and call it Amazon Women on the Rise,
By Isaac Therneau From: Rochester, MN Mar 29, 2010 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a R
Thanks for the info Alex. I had heard that Tommy D had led it in the past and that the current name was a goof on Pete C's accent.
If the right arete is off, then there should be another climb that uses it. There's a terrific sequence that uses the right arete just below the roof to reach high to a left facing side pull just above the roof, then move feet way left to surmount the roof continuing to slap up the arete and use sidepulls. Once above the roof, there are some terrible feet and a couple more difficult moves. Also felt like 11b or 11c.
On lead, I fell right below the good holds (and pro) 6 - 8 feet above the roof. I didn't place any gear in Rogers and the fall was a little rough on my ankles but not bad. With Very solid pro in the roof and a good belayer this is a sweet lead. I will have to get back on it!