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Höhe Hinterland
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Wünderkind 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ryan Barber, Bradley White. FFA: Mike C. Robinson, Spring 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,320
Submitted By: Ryan Barber on May 30, 2012

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Drilling bolt number 6.

Description 

This roof is one of the last super features to be set up at Rumney, and its beautifully aesthetic geology can be clearly seen from Buffalo Road and even from Route 25 for those who know well the mountain. Originally done as a ground up aid climb by hang-dogging on gear and cleaning the debris, it is now ready to be climbed by traveling Rumney sportsters. With positive gear placements most of the way through, it still has the potential for a clean traditional ascent with one short section of pg-13 climbing.

There two main intimidation factors to this climb. The first is a large cammed block with a gnarly shark's fin protruding its top ("Pinky Toe of Fate??") the use of which is absolutely necessary to make your way into the roof. The first ascent made very delicate use of this block, and after passing it, attempted to break it or dislodge it via foot with no success. Subsequent ascents have hauled on the block to reach up into the ceiling, and its camming structure as well rock strength at the fin seem very strong. With the large juggy nature of the fin, it presents itself as merely psychological rather than physical intimidation. The second intimidation factor is the crux traverse around to the face. Fixing a draw on bolt number six is helpful, because you can clip before making the move around the corner onto the face with no risk besides a clean air drop.

Though the access is a little out there by Rumney standards, don't let this deter you from this hidden gem!

Location 

In Ward's Guidebook, the topo for "Lean Mean" is incorrectly drawn through this feature.

There are four options of approach, the easiest being to repel in from the Crow's Nest. Secondly, one could climb Back Crack, and climb through a short black face with double bolts which leads directly to the base. Thirdly, is to climb Cold Feet and traverse left for about 70 feet which again leads to the short black face over which is the base of the climb.

Protection 

7 bolts to LO.

There is a double bolt belay at the base of the climb as well as a double bolt lower off at the top (which sends you into the gully where there is another repel/belay station).


Photos of Wünderkind Slideshow Add Photo
Wünderkind as seen from the start of the climb.
Wünderkind as seen from the start of the climb.
Ryan Barber on FA.  Check out the plumb line of the hanging drill to get an idea of the angle under the roof.
Ryan Barber on FA. Check out the plumb line of th...
Mike post crux whip.  Check out the plumb line from the angle of his rope, its a little steep up there.
Mike post crux whip. Check out the plumb line fro...

Comments on Wünderkind Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 24, 2013
By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
May 30, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Really a very good route! I will be selling it to anyone who will listen!
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 31, 2012

Indeed a beautiful feature guys! How hard do you think this will go when it goes all free?
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 31, 2012

Cool hope one of you guys can do the FFA, let me know when you guys do so that I can then give it a go. The feature looks awesome, it begs to be climbed!
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 1, 2012

I got rid of the comment about the extra cam, it is not necessary. We realized that bolts are set up fine with no real need for the extra placement as used before. However it is beneficial to hang a draw off of bolt number six so you can make the clip before going around the corner to the face if you want to reduce the pg-13 factor.
By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 9, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

relized today that the current guide book has this as route 1a on the Topo, mixed up with the location of Mean Lean which is actually on the Left side of the Jolt/Dolt corner.
This route is to the right of that corner, again it is in the current guide book topo as 1a
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 21, 2012

There is some discussion about the guidebook error here.

mountainproject.com/v/killers-...
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 16, 2012

I'm really upset to see Bradley removing his contributions to the site. I can understand the frustration but it's unfortunate that he decided to strip the rich history (e.g., Comments on Iron Man) that some of us have truly appreciated. The comments he's added to this route were also very worth while: "The belay bolts for Wünderkind are not rappel bolts and they are there to stay on the rock (we did some injury to the little trees on our first ascent). The bolts are not there for rappelling. Excellent for belaying." Further mentioning approach and descent comments to help preserve the area.

:( :\

I hope he reads this. For anyone who's interested (include Bradley), I have the entire Rumney site (and all comments) backed up. Feel free to contact me via e-mail on this site.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jul 16, 2012

I second you opinion Jeffrey, the history he has provided has been very interesting, and it would be sad to lose all the valuable info!.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 16, 2012

It is a shame, but I don't think other MP users should be held hostage to his tantrums if anybody critiques his actions or even asks for an explanation. Despite his belief that anything goes at Rumney, that is not most people's attitude towards the area, nor should it be, and people's critiques are needed to help us all manage the area in some sort of democratic way along with the official managers.
By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jul 18, 2012

Mark is continuing his rhetoric commenting. Eventually these comments are going to come back to him owning up to them in the end. Again non applicable comments about Wunderkind as a climb and a great deal of presumption opinion of my motives and character composition. Mark, who are the official managers of Rattlesnake Mt. climbing? The R.C.A.? The National Forest Service?
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 18, 2012

"... who are the official managers of Rattlesnake Mt. climbing? The R.C.A.? The National Forest Service?"

-Both. The RCA has an official arrangement to work with the FS. Bob Bruemmer could explain it better than I, I'm sure, if you want to contact him.
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Jul 20, 2012

RIght now, there are hanging draws and a fixed static line that you can rap in from the Crow's Nest if anyone wants to try and flash it. I watched James Swart onsight it the other day before I took my official redpoint. Very fun, but definitely quite the approach. Warm up on some stuff at the Crow's Nest before heading down since most people don't get up there that often.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 20, 2012

"Hi Matt (5.11C) the 'pinkie toe of fate' or the shark finned block is a real humdinger, literally hand traversing it, audible vibration. The sound emanates on the rock and that was a first! I didn't free the ceiling moves. I seconded it and the draws came off with difficultly. I hung a lot on a fifi hook to a bolt. Passed the ceiling is the awesome exposed 5.9 finish. Now draws are on it. So, its pink point.
My imagined route goes ground up by: Starting at Moxie to Höhe Hinterland to Wunderkind. Moxie has not been freed yet and anyone can go for it. Doing these connected climbs has not been done yet. It's all there for the interested.
The belay bolts for Wünderkind are not rappel bolts and they are there to stay on the rock (we did some injury to the little trees on our first ascent). The bolts are not there for rappelling. Excellent for belaying.
We had two 145ft nines for ropes on first ascent. Nowadays being climbed by rappelling down to it from below the left side ending of the Crow's Nest trail. There is a rock gully to go down and below left big trees near the cliff. This descent approach goes dangerously close to the cliff. That's how climbers are going for it and it has become trail. Not my preference nor advice and we went up and down the slope the earliest. So we are, what?
I understand going, ground up, is a time consumer and its a work out. Not having to deal with this climbing of the whole ledge is the logic to rappelling down to Wunderkind. Traffic will increase and Houston we are going to have a problem. An accident on this trail will be a long fall.
There is a beige 60 meter static rope anchored to a tree that reaches to the ground. I don't know how long the rope will be there. There are anchors for rappel to the base of the black wall trees. Only one draw on the rappel bolts or they are not rappel equipped. From the trees at the black wall rappel Back Crack (until some best, other way is found).
Walking off to the Crow's Nest has the option of climbing something.
Again that brings up the issue of the resulted trail."

Comment by bradley white on May 31st, 2012 11:06 am
By Peter Jackson
From: Rumney, NH
Aug 27, 2012

I think Brad's comments on routes are useful history, too. It seems like he's also here to set the record straight on some elements of history, which I also support and applaud.

But the public arguing is embarrassing: maybe it ought to be limited to the forums, where people expect that kind of thing.

In any case: thanks very much, Jeff, for restoring Brad's historical narratives.
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Mar 24, 2013

Getting back to the route, we've all freed it now, so it's open for projecting. Its well worth it if you don't mind the trip up there. Perhaps a good one to hit up on the way down from a session at Crow's Nest. I believe there is still a fixed static line below Crow's Nest which drops you right in.