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WMA Crack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 3,336
Submitted By: Arnold Braker on Jul 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Climb a wide crack (#4) to gain a small Large. Then head up the Indian Creek style splitter for about 30 feet.


Look for the obvious thin hands splitter going up the middle of wall. Just up the hill and left of the slackline.


Up to a #4 but you'll probably want several red camalots.

Photos of WMA Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Jamming up WMA
Jamming up WMA
Wide to thin hands
BETA PHOTO: Wide to thin hands

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By Chris Prewitt
May 20, 2008

One of the classic trad lines in the canyon. Quite striking when you first come up the trail. Gotta love a crux at the end.
By Big Ears
Sep 26, 2011

I place 2 #3s, a # 1 and #.75 cam. Really run out, but if you are comfy on hands its way more fun to run it out. It climbs so well, its easy to neglect placing gear. Great route.
By Spenser Bolte
Dec 24, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Save a #1 and a .75 for up top. The .75 protects the crux just before the anchors, so make sure you have it.
By Alfonso
Nov 10, 2014

ok...im a classic hands width crack climber...i struggle on anything wide, or offwidth. So for me, the crux came about 15-20' up, where i had my elbows deep in the crack. Also...I used both a #5 as my first piece down low, below the obvious small shelf...and I used a #6 at the top of my crux 20' up. This crack widens down low and 1/3 of the way up. Can take big gear. Half way up, the perfect crack starts and nearly goes all the way up. Nonetheless, still onsighted route. I used 7 pieces (Gear Beta SPOLIER ALERT)...in order...#5, #2 (not great), #6, #3, #1, #1, #.75...to bolted anchors. I didnt think there was an upper crux...but I have skinny hands that slot perfectly.
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