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North of the prominent central buttress on the lower great face lies a severely overhanging alcove and an array of tall, beautiful slabs. This area has been recently developed into a fresh single pitch sport and trad climbing destination in the Estes Park Valley. The Wizard's Gate lies at above 10,000 feet and thus can feel very alpine at times (aka bring an extra layer and prepare for heavy breathing). The slabs remain in the shade until late afternoon and the alcove never sees sun, making it a perfect summer area. Dubbed 'The Wizard's Gate' for good reason, one should expect to find some truly magical climbing here along with exceptional views and brilliant summer conditions.
Across CO Highway 7 from Lily Lake, just south of Estes Park, there is a dirt road that eventually dead ends. Park somewhere along the right side of this road. Follow the Twin Sisters Trail until the 3rd switchback, where you should continue straight (north-northeast) and look for a moderately well-traveled climber's trail. The trail winds through the forest and occasionally through small boulderfields until you reach the base of the Lower Great Face. Shoot for the protruding Central Buttress and continue around to the north side.
A. Fantasia, 12- R, 1p, 60', gear.
19 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Wizard's Gate
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wizard's Gate:
Crystal Staircase 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Merlin's Magic Corner 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Dark Horse 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
G3 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Wizard's Path 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Riding with the Ravens 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
The Guillotine 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Take Me to Your Leader 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
The Gatekeeper 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Afterlife 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Magic Dagger 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Cloak and Dagger 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Magic Carpet Ride 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Featured Route For Wizard's Gate
Magic Carpet Ride 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Wizard's Gate
This is a stunning line. To reach the Magic Carpet Ride, float a little ways up a 5.7 slab and clip the first bolt. Turn a corner and continue on steepening ground (5.11) until you reach vertical and your final, somewhat restful position. From here, a very cryptic and powerful move sequence begins and does not let up (not even really to clip) until you exit the incredible Magic Carpet panel. Some exotic and uncharacteristic granite grips bless this powerful climb. Finish on the same chain anchor...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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