BETA PHOTO: Wizard Wall access point.
This is a sweet section of rock inbetween Bill's Buttress and the Far East Wall. It is somewhat neglected due to the less-than-obvious access to the wall. There are several stellar routes on this wall that are well worth rappelling in to.
Walk along the cliff-top trail Northwest from the Video Bluff. Look for a lone Allen bolt/hanger on top of a rock at the cliff's edge. This is the access point for the Northwestern half of the routes on the Wizard Wall.
Accessing the climbs on the Wizard Wall from the base of the wall is possible by climbing a short (roughly 20') section of easy 5th class rock and gaining the belay ledge below Mind Games, Phylynx, etc.
Weather station 4.1 miles from here
2 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for (8) Wizard Wall:
Featured Route For (8) Wizard Wall
Mind Games 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a OR
: Portland & The Gorge
: ... : (8) Wizard Wall
Mind Games is one of the most unique routes at Rocky Butte. More people would climb it were more widely known how to access the area. Start by gaining the belay ledge, either by rappelling in or climbing up 20' from the forest floor. Ascend an easy, blocky start up to the chimney. Stem and grunt up the large flaring chimney before making a tricky exit move to the anchor....[more] Browse More Classics in OR
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