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Wizard Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Christal Ball 
Crack 
Driven Like the Snow 
Magic Wand 
Right Arete 
Ruff 
Snow Crash 
Two in the Bush 
Uncertain Fates 
Wave Yer Wand 
Way of the Wizard 
Wide Jadodat 
Wizard Shuffle 

Wizard Rock 


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Lat, Long: 39.9991, -105.4111 Map Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,886
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ray Snead on Oct 4, 2003
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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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BETA PHOTO: Wizard Rock. The four bolted sport routes are sho...
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Wizard Rock is located high on the south side of the canyon, just east of Avalon. A fine destination for the Boulder Canyon climber who has done everything.

L->R:

A. Wide Jadodat, 4, 1p, 45', gear.
B. Uncertain Fates, 8 R, 75', 1p, gear to 2".
C. Christal Ball, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.
D. Crack, 7, 1p, 80', 1p, gear to 3.5".
E. Magic Wand, 8, 1p, 80', bolts.
F. Wave Yer Wand, 6, 1p, 80', gear.
G1.Ruff, 9 R, 1p, 90', gear or TR.
G2.Snow Crash, 10, 1p, 90', bolts.
H. Driven Like the Snow, 7, 1p, 95', gear.
I. Right Arete, 7+, 1p, 130', gear.
J. Wizard Shuffle, 5 PG-13, 1p, 95', gear or TR.
K. Two in the Bush, 9 R, 1p, 70', gear or TR.
L. Way of the Wizard, 8, 1p, 70', bolts.

Others (relative locations uncertain):

Way of the Lizard, 7


Getting There 

Approach from the east end of the big ledge atop the Third Tier of Avalon or from the top of Solaris. To descend, lower from ring anchors or walk off to the north and west.


13 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Wizard Rock
The climb, the rope at the bottom is in the starter finger crack.

Wizard Shuffle 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a PG13  CO : Boulder Canyon : Wizard Rock
This is another line just to the left of Way of the Wizard by about 30 feet. Start near a brief, finger crack to a ledge. Go up a left-facing dihedral of sorts on interesting scoops to gain a crack system. Note, there is a substantial flake on the left about 30 feet up which sounds solid but appears to be resting on a small base. Gain the ridge line and shuffle to the right to the anchors for Way of the Wizard. Beware, there is a down-pointing, triangular block bel...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Wizard Rock Add Comment
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By Richard Rossiter
Oct 6, 2003

Way of the Wizard 9 *FA: R. Rossiter and Christine Damiano, 2001.This route leads to the top of Wizard Rock. Begin at the far right side of the crag, uphill and around to the right. Stem straight up a tricky dihedral, gain the main slab, and continue to the top. 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 85 feet.

This should actually be listed as a new route and it is one of the best on the crag so far.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 8, 2003

Wizard Rock is a secluded spot with four moderate (8 to 10b) bolted routes. Most of the routes face west and get morning shade, making Wizard Rock a good hot-weather destination. All the sport routes can be done with a 50m rope and a set of quickdraws.

The easiest approach is from Avalon. Cross the creek by the Avalon tyrolean traverse, go up the talus field, and head up and right to the Wall of the Dead. Go around this to the right and up to the summit tier of Avalon. Traverse left under Avalon's summit tier heading downstream. Pass a short wall with several cracks (Wall of the Goddess) and continue into the woods on a trail right next to the rock. Break into a clearing, cross a gully, and you arrive at Wizard Rock.

The first route you see starts just past a fallen log and goes up a clean, blocky arete above a tree stump (Snow Crash, 10b). The second route starts twenty feet left of Snow Crash and goes up a blunt buttress (Magic Wand, 8). The third route starts twenty feet left of Magic Wand, on a narrow buttress with three blocky overhangs (Christal Ball, 9).

The fourth route is up the gully to the right of Snow Crash, and starts at a short steep corner with a black streak, just right of another tree stump (Way of the Wizard, 9).

Wizard Rock is a good place for new leaders to tackle some harder lines, since the four sport routes are well bolted.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 5, 2007

Richard Rossiter has done two additional routes on Wizard Rock: Right Arete and Way of the Lizard. It would be great to incorporate these routes into the Wizard Rock area description. See www.boulderclimbs.com/wizard.html.

From the route descriptions, it seems to me that Right Arete and Walk the Older Roads are very similar, as are Way of the Lizard and Two in the Bush.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Sep 5, 2007

FWIW, Way of the Lizard is described as starting up something steep and then goes onto a slab. Two in the Bush, as Allen did it, went up a steep bit (~10') and then followed a crack system.