Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
This is an excellent vertical outing up a beautiful section of the cliff. First envisioned as a headpoint, this route is destined to become a neo-classic with the addition of bolts.
Begin with the traditional 1st pitch of Vertigo (5.9). Where the second pitch begins to steepen, place a good cam and head out and up to the bolt on the right. Four more bolts with a few optional pieces of gear lead to a horizontal. Either traverse left to the Vertigo ledge belay or bust 5.10 moves through the small roof(or step right then back left) and clip the first bolt on the last pitch of the Doub-Griffith. Proceed to summit on this climb. You get bonus points for finishing on the new Schlauch Direct, 5.12a, 2 bolts on the arete. It is a mega 70m pitch!
5 bolts plus a standard Eldo rack. A 0.5 tri-cam is perfect in a pocket between 3rd and 4th bolt. A #4 cam is also nice to have at the horizontal break at the top.
Nice job, Eric! This is a great addition to that particular chunk of rock. Definitely 5.11+ on a TR. SS
By Todd Felix Jun 11, 2014 rating: 5.11+7a24VIII24E4 6a PG13
Thanks to Eric for his vision and work on this great new line! Lots of consistent 5.11 climbing. A bit sporty but not dangerous. Red point grade is probably 5.11b, but expect 5.11+ for the on-sight. There is at least one move which is less than obvious.