Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Redgarden - Tower One
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alice in Bucketland T 
Apple Strudel T,S 
Art Of Slappiness, The S 
Art's Spar T 
Better Layton Never S 
Blueberry Boodle T 
Body Tremors T 
Chockstone Chimney T 
Consummation Nite T 
Daedalus T 
Deadpoint T 
Dirty Deed T 
Doub-Griffith T 
E.L.100 T 
Electric Aunt Jemima T 
Exhibit A T 
Exit Stage Left T 
Flashdance T 
Fresh Garbage T 
Grand Giraffe T 
Icarus T 
Ignition S 
Italian Arete T 
King Cobra, The T 
Magic Bus T 
Magic Carpet Ride S 
Magic Route T 
Mellow Fellow T 
Mellow Yellow T,S 
Memory Lapse T 
Mickey Mouse Nailup T 
Much Slater (left variation) T 
Neptune's Bible T 
Neurosis T 
One and a Half Hours of Power T 
Over the Shoulder Stuff T 
Parting Shot T,S 
Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 
Pigeon Crack T 
Psycho Pigeon T 
Psychosis T 
Reaper T 
Rocky Raccoon T 
Roll Over Rover T 
Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 
Rover T 
Ruper T 
Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 
Short Arm Inspection. T 
Smoke & Mirrors T 
Song of the Dodo T,TR 
South Face of Tower One T 
Super Slab T 
Superspar T 
Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 
To RP or not to Be T 
Untouchables, The S 
Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 
Vertigo T 
West Arete (of T1), The T 
Without A Net T 
Yellow Fellow T 
Yellow Spur, The T 
Ytrid Deed, The T 

Without A Net 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Eric Johnson, Todd Felix
New Route: Yes
Season: all
Page Views: 480
Submitted By: EDJ on Jun 11, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]

  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is an excellent vertical outing up a beautiful section of the cliff. First envisioned as a headpoint, this route is destined to become a neo-classic with the addition of bolts.

    Location 

    Begin with the traditional 1st pitch of Vertigo (5.9). Where the second pitch begins to steepen, place a good cam and head out and up to the bolt on the right. Four more bolts with a few optional pieces of gear lead to a horizontal. Either traverse left to the Vertigo ledge belay or bust 5.10 moves through the small roof(or step right then back left) and clip the first bolt on the last pitch of the Doub-Griffith. Proceed to summit on this climb. You get bonus points for finishing on the new Schlauch Direct, 5.12a, 2 bolts on the arete. It is a mega 70m pitch!

    Protection 

    5 bolts plus a standard Eldo rack. A 0.5 tri-cam is perfect in a pocket between 3rd and 4th bolt. A #4 cam is also nice to have at the horizontal break at the top.


    Comments on Without A Net Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By EDJ
    From: Eldorado Springs, Colorado
    Jun 11, 2014

    Thanks to ACE/FHRC for facilitating the new route process in Eldo. There are some gems still out there!
    By Steve Sangdahl
    From: eldo sprngs,co
    Jun 11, 2014

    Nice job, Eric! This is a great addition to that particular chunk of rock. Definitely 5.11+ on a TR. SS
    By Todd Felix
    Jun 11, 2014
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13

    Thanks to Eric for his vision and work on this great new line! Lots of consistent 5.11 climbing. A bit sporty but not dangerous. Red point grade is probably 5.11b, but expect 5.11+ for the on-sight. There is at least one move which is less than obvious.