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Batman Pinnacle
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Within Reach 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: S Kimball, J. Wylie, 1981
Season: any
Page Views: 502
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 20, 2006

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Description 

Thjis is good, fun, gymnastic, reasonably protected, but most notably, SHORT. This climb starts just out and down from the saddle between the summit of Batman Pinnacle and the lower South Face of Batman Rock.

Approach via a gully to the East of the notch, or from the rap from the summit of the Batman Pinnacle after doing another line to its summit (Batman and Robbin). Descend slightly East from this notch, then go out and down to a flat set of rocks in a V-shaped wedge between the wall and a huge flake. The flat rocks wedged here are a great belay stand or seat.Climb left (placing gear ASAP) on thin holds out over space, then start up and left to an obvious horizontal flake- then continue up a good set of holds and a finger crack at the left edge of a down-ward pointing flake above this (5.10-). The "lock off to a jug" mentioned in Gillett was not obvious, unless the 'jug' is a fingercrack or an awkward flake out left (contrived to skip the crack and the pro behind it). Climb easier moves to the top.

We also did not find an offwidth anywhere on this, as referred to in the Gillett book.

Descend via raps from the chains to the north, then down ramps and gullies to the East as described on the Rock page.


Location 

On the NE corner of the Summit cap of Batman Pinnacle. See route description.


Protection 

A light rack of cams down to 1/2" and some slings. The anchor up top was tricams and a cordalette on a bollard of rock to the North, near the rap.



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