With Malice and Forethought is located on the north side of the Varnished Wall, about 40' to the left of Crank Queenie. Climb up a crack, clip the bolt, and then pull through the roof to the right and easier ground. Although awkward, it is possible and recommended to back up the 1/4" bolt with a nut or TCU.
Anchor: slung horn(s).
Descent: rap off slung horns with one quicklink.
A few nuts, 1 bolt (3/8")
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 21, 2003
Note that the 1/4" rusty death bolt has been replaced as of 1/2003.
|By Brian Reynolds|
May 19, 2003
I enjoyed this route. Definitely not a bomb in my opinion. It has an interesting range of moves in a nice location. Plus it's on one of the few north faces in Indian Cove, which is really nice on hot days in May!!! Didn't seem too hard for a 5.7, though. In fact, I found it significantly easier than both the 5.6 I climbed in Steve Canyon the day before (Deflowered), and the 5.7 I climbed the next day on Feudal Wall (Crown Jewel's 2nd pitch).
The rappel anchor is not confidence-inspiring.
Nov 30, 2010
I thought the move around the corner was relatively easy but awkward and required a little thought. Without the bolt that move would require even more contemplation. Worth doing.
|By Russ Walling|
Oct 26, 2012
Pretty good route and you are probably here/there anyway. Take a few small nuts to protect the start and maybe a bit in the big left facing corner by the bolt. Moving to the right is easier closer to the bolt. If you go up the arch too far before moving right, it is a bit harder. Use the slung block anchor for Disco Sucks to rap or lower.