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East and Northeast Buttress Approach
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L to R R to L Alpha
Assembly Line T 
Back to Montana T 
Belle Fourche Buttress T 
Broken Tree T 
Buckspeck S 
Burning Daylight T 
Casper College T 
Everlasting T 
Gooseberry Jam T 
Hourglass, The T 
Maid in the Shade T 
Missed Opportunity T 
New Wave T 
Patent Pending T 
Pinball Wizard T 
Soaring T,S 
Spectator Sport T 
Surfer Girl T 
Team Ropin S 
Witchie T 

Witchie 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Conley and Pearson, 1975
Page Views: 179
Submitted By: Sean Nelb on Aug 23, 2011

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Description 

Witchie is a seldom-led climb on the east side. It has excellent moves, but contains some bushes and loose rock. However, it is definitely worth doing if you are looking for something a litte less conventional than the more classic lines to the right.

Follow a left-leaning corner to a roof. Climb around the roof and into a finger and hand crack that leads to another corner and an anchor. This pitch has a little vegetation, but is otherwise clean with solid rock. 5.9

Keep following the long corner using mostly stems and finger jams until an anchor is reached in a chimney. This pitch is very sustained 5.10b. Some loose flakes can be found on the upper section, but they can mostly be avoided. 160 ft.


Location 

Start on the far left side of the ledge at the base of Burning Daylight and Belle Fourche.


Protection 

nuts and cams to #2 camalot. Doubles handy, especially in the finger sizes.



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