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 ADVANCED
East and Northeast Buttress Approach
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Assembly Line 
Back to Montana 
Belle Fourche Buttress 
Broken Tree 
Buckspeck 
Burning Daylight 
Casper College 
Everlasting 
Gooseberry Jam 
Hourglass, The 
Maid in the Shade 
Missed Opportunity 
New Wave 
Patent Pending 
Pinball Wizard 
Soaring 
Spectator Sport 
Surfer Girl 
Team Ropin 
Witchie 

Witchie 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Conley and Pearson, 1975
Page Views: 158
Submitted By: Sean Nelb on Aug 23, 2011
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Description 

Witchie is a seldom-led climb on the east side. It has excellent moves, but contains some bushes and loose rock. However, it is definitely worth doing if you are looking for something a litte less conventional than the more classic lines to the right.

Follow a left-leaning corner to a roof. Climb around the roof and into a finger and hand crack that leads to another corner and an anchor. This pitch has a little vegetation, but is otherwise clean with solid rock. 5.9

Keep following the long corner using mostly stems and finger jams until an anchor is reached in a chimney. This pitch is very sustained 5.10b. Some loose flakes can be found on the upper section, but they can mostly be avoided. 160 ft.


Location 

Start on the far left side of the ledge at the base of Burning Daylight and Belle Fourche.


Protection 

nuts and cams to #2 camalot. Doubles handy, especially in the finger sizes.



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