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Witchhunt 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Shane Willet, Mike Carnahan, 1992
Page Views: 4,398
Submitted By: Eric Jacobsen on Jun 15, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (140)
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Pulling up the roof.

Description 

A short route but very fun. The wall is very overhanging and looks super hard at first, but then you realize that there are great holds all the way up. Crux is clipping the second bolt and then pulling over the roof towards the third.

This climb is on the south-facing overhung wall down and to the left of the main Slips wall. They are shaded by trees and immediately adjacent to the river. If you're traversing across the river on the tyrolean, look to the left.Nice flat belay area.


Protection 

Four bolts to a set of chain anchors at the top.


Photos of Witchhunt Slideshow Add Photo
Overhanging south face of the Slips.  Rope is on Witchhunt (5.10a)
BETA PHOTO: Overhanging south face of the Slips. Rope is on W...
clipping at the crux.  i always throw a hook whenever i can.
clipping at the crux. i always throw a hook whene...
Almost up.
Almost up.

Comments on Witchhunt Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 18, 2014
By Nathan Fisher
Apr 8, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Pumping climb, and enjoyable, a hard 10a.
By Lee Gitlin
Apr 26, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree that the crux is pulling the roof. But I think that move is between the 3rd and 4th bolt? A fall here means a long whipper into space. The route is significantly easier above the roof (5.6-5.7 range). Have fun!
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 12, 2004

One of my favorite climbs in BCC. I would say the crux is between the second and third bolt. Once you clip the third bolt, its just a matter of pulling on some big holds.
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Dec 6, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Beware that the very good jug below the third bolt is loosening!
By Rebecca Airmet
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 14, 2006
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

A great climb! If you're top-roping it, consider clipping the third/second bolt on rappel to avoid too much swing away from the route if you pop off.

And not to admit to being a wimp, but... you can set a top rope on the climb without being a .10a climber. After clipping the second bolt, standing on the last big ledge below the roof, you can step to your right on to a ledge, climb the 5.7 slab above, skip the third bolt and clip the fourth, and continue to the chains. This probably goes at about 5.9, but the "runout" part is easier.
By Ryan Peterson
From: North Salt Lake, Utah
Jun 9, 2007

I thought this was easy as anything on the other side of the wall. Awkward bolting positions though, bring a few long runners

Can't say it felt harder than a 5.8
By John Bradford
From: Yellowstone National Park
Mar 29, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Can't say I agree with a 5.8 rating, it certainly feels harder than that, though everything through the roof is extremely positive, the trick is staying on the face and not cheating the corner. This and Salem's Lot are a good quick outing when the water is low. PLus, there are not too many more pleasant settings on a hot summer day.
By john richards
From: salt lake city UT
Apr 21, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

easy solid climb for new leaders. The roof is a head game. Feet and hands are there.
By Michael MacFadden
May 26, 2008

This is a fun route to start leading over a roof. The holds are there and pretty big if you get your feet in the right spot. One caution if lowering or repelling off, if you attempt to stay to the right until lowering past the roof, you will swing a great deal and your rope will be dragged over a fairly nasty edge. Oh and watch for the tree just below the chains.
By McRae Williams
Jun 3, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

This was a very short but epic route. The crux is most definitely under and pulling the roof, easy after that. This BCC route is not to be missed.
By JeffM
From: SLC
Aug 8, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I climbed Witchhunt this a.m. for the first time. After clipping bolt #3, I down climbed a little and rested. Then, fired through the super steep section. Nice to have such a steep section with big holds. Well bolted. 5.10a, two stars (because it's so short).
By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Sep 17, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

one move wonder.
By Gabriel Tallent
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 2, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Easy 5.7 or 5.8 moves to the roof, and then as soon as you pull the roof, the climb eases back again. The roof moves are powerful and secure, but they would be pretty daunting for a 5.8 leader, I think. This makes the route a little hard to grade. Don't cheat out right.
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Sep 20, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Easy climbing up to the roof, crux being clipping the bolt before the roof and pulling it. Looks harder than it is, with a massive jug right by the bolt making an easy clip. Dont go out right and cheat yourself. Definitely a one move wonder. 5.9+.
By Bonneville
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 18, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Awesome route! By far one of my fav's in BCC. Very similar look and feel to the Potstash route on Wallstreet down in Moab. The only thing preventing this from being a classic is the short length.