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BETA PHOTO: Overhanging south face of the Slips. Rope is on W...
A short route but very fun. The wall is very overhanging and looks super hard at first, but then you realize that there are great holds all the way up. Crux is clipping the second bolt and then pulling over the roof towards the third.
This climb is on the south-facing overhung wall down and to the left of the main Slips wall. They are shaded by trees and immediately adjacent to the river. If you're traversing across the river on the tyrolean, look to the left.Nice flat belay area.
Four bolts to a set of chain anchors at the top.
clipping at the crux. i always throw a hook whene...
Pulling up the roof.
|By Nathan Fisher|
Apr 8, 2004
Pumping climb, and enjoyable, a hard 10a.
|By Lee Gitlin|
Apr 26, 2004
I agree that the crux is pulling the roof. But I think that move is between the 3rd and 4th bolt? A fall here means a long whipper into space. The route is significantly easier above the roof (5.6-5.7 range). Have fun!
|By Anonymous Coward|
Nov 12, 2004
One of my favorite climbs in BCC. I would say the crux is between the second and third bolt. Once you clip the third bolt, its just a matter of pulling on some big holds.
From: Spokane, WA
Dec 6, 2004
Beware that the very good jug below the third bolt is loosening!
|By Rebecca Airmet|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 14, 2006
A great climb! If you're top-roping it, consider clipping the third/second bolt on rappel to avoid too much swing away from the route if you pop off.
And not to admit to being a wimp, but... you can set a top rope on the climb without being a .10a climber. After clipping the second bolt, standing on the last big ledge below the roof, you can step to your right on to a ledge, climb the 5.7 slab above, skip the third bolt and clip the fourth, and continue to the chains. This probably goes at about 5.9, but the "runout" part is easier.
|By Ryan Peterson|
From: North Salt Lake, Utah
Jun 9, 2007
I thought this was easy as anything on the other side of the wall. Awkward bolting positions though, bring a few long runners
Can't say it felt harder than a 5.8
|By John Bradford|
From: Lilongwe, Malawi
Mar 29, 2008
Can't say I agree with a 5.8 rating, it certainly feels harder than that, though everything through the roof is extremely positive, the trick is staying on the face and not cheating the corner. This and Salem's Lot are a good quick outing when the water is low. PLus, there are not too many more pleasant settings on a hot summer day.
|By john richards|
From: salt lake city UT
Apr 21, 2008
easy solid climb for new leaders. The roof is a head game. Feet and hands are there.
|By Michael MacFadden|
May 26, 2008
This is a fun route to start leading over a roof. The holds are there and pretty big if you get your feet in the right spot. One caution if lowering or repelling off, if you attempt to stay to the right until lowering past the roof, you will swing a great deal and your rope will be dragged over a fairly nasty edge. Oh and watch for the tree just below the chains.
|By McRae Williams|
Jun 3, 2008
This was a very short but epic route. The crux is most definitely under and pulling the roof, easy after that. This BCC route is not to be missed.
Aug 8, 2008
I climbed Witchhunt this a.m. for the first time. After clipping bolt #3, I down climbed a little and rested. Then, fired through the super steep section. Nice to have such a steep section with big holds. Well bolted. 5.10a, two stars (because it's so short).
|By Jon Zucco|
From: Denver, CO
Sep 17, 2008
one move wonder.
|By Tyler N|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 21, 2013
rating: 5.10a PG13
I love this climb, but if you miss that third bolt you could very well slam into the ledge below it.