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Witches' Tower
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
It's My Swamp 
Nala 
No Direction Home 
Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad)) 
Pumpkin Eater 
Romancing the Stone 
Scarecrow 
Teenage Terrorists 
Tese 
Tipskin Jihad 
War is Love 
Wisk, The 
Witch Hunt 

Witches' Tower 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,750'
Lat, Long: 40.0022, -105.395 Map
Page Views: 13,147. Good page?   
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 15, 2004

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu
Thunderstorm
66° | 45°
Thunderstorm
59° | 46°
Chance of Rain
70° | 45°
Partly Cloudy
75° | 50°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
79° | 52°

Irina moving left into the steep corner on Tese.

Description 

This is up to a 140 foot high buttress or rib of rock that connects with Sherwood Forest across the creek from the Riviera & Bihedral about 7 miles upstream from the Elephant Buttresses/Dome Rock area. It is initially less than obvious that it is a separate rock unless you are Boulder Canyon cognoscetti or until you peruse R. Rossiter's 1999 Boulder Canyon guidebook. Apparently there have been old routes done or attempted low on its steep W face. Since this original post, there has been some lines with bolts and gear added. Certainly, from a distance, evidence of such lines or attempts is difficult to discern. However, a shallow dihedral on the NW edge draws the eye. The less-steep North face also invites the adventuresome but has more lichen.

Expect some lichen and loose rock if you explore here. There is room for more lines for those willing to explore. Expect some shade.

You can descend off to the East on steep slopes. No anchor currently exists on its top.

Several new routes were added in the fall of 2005.

L->R:

A. It's My Swamp, 8, 3p, 370', gear.
B. Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad)), 12-, 1p, bolts & gear.
C. War is Love, 11, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
D. Tipskin Jihad, 12, 1p, 45', bolts.
E. Teenage Terrorists, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. Romancing the Stone, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
G. Nala, 10-, 1p, 100', gear.
H. Tese, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
I. No Direction Home, 11-, 1p, 45' or 95', bolts.
J. Scarecrow, 8+, 1p, 45', gear & bolts.


Getting There 

Go to Boulder. Drive W on CO Hwy 119 (aka Canyon). Drive W about 7 mi upstream past Elephant Buttresses/Dome Rock. Park in a nice pullout with some shady trees on the S side of the road below the Bihedral. Walk 150 yards downstream to a tyrolean traverse that starts on a big flat boulder and goes to a big tree on the far side. Cross the tyrolean and head left on a trail heading downstream. After a few minutes you'll reach Witches' Tower near the route Romancing the Stone. Just uphill and right from this is Sherwood Forest.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Witches' Tower:
Pumpkin Eater   V5-6     Boulder, 20 feet   
Witch Hunt   V10-11     Boulder, 15 feet   
Romancing the Stone   5.9     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Nala   5.10-     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Tese   5.10     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
No Direction Home   5.11     Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet   
War is Love   5.11b/c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad))   5.12-     Sport, 80 feet   
Tipskin Jihad   5.12a/b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   
Teenage Terrorists   5.12a/b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Browse More Classics in Witches' Tower

Featured Route For Witches' Tower
Greg Hand at the second bolt on the first ascent. <br /> <br />Sustained, varied climbing from bottom to top makes Tese (pronounced "Tessie") an excellent and fun route.

Tese 5.10  CO : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower
Start right of Romancing the Stone. Climb up a cool face making nice moves on edges and knobs past two bolts. A yellow Alien can be place before the third bolt. Make cool moves stemming up and over several small overhangs to the anchor.ADD on: 6/10/08...Greg Hand and Bob D just added a extension past the anchor climbing along a cool arete with great moves. The route is now 100 feet long and 11 bolts. Be careful lowering as a 60-meter rope just makes it to the ground.A great addition and one of t...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Witches' Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Witches' Tower, Sherwood Forest, and Garden Party Wall as seen from the Bihedral.

BETA PHOTO: Witches' Tower, Sherwood Forest, and Garden Party ...

The Witches Tower & Sherwood Forest areas.

BETA PHOTO: The Witches Tower & Sherwood Forest areas.


Comments on Witches' Tower Add Comment
Show which comments
By david goldstein
Jul 28, 2006

We did a couple of routes here one day after making a fairly comprehensive tour of Sherwood Forest. I thought the two climbs here were better than almost everything at SF. Remarkable that this cliff which is passed on the approach to SF went ignored for so long.

By Jeremy
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2008

I agree that this is a good tower, but better than anything at SF? No way! It's a worthy stop, but Sherwood KILLS this place.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 7, 2011

Nice summer destination. Stays shady and cool until 1 PM or so.