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This classic route ascends the left arete past 4 bolts for over 100' to the top of the formation. Large holds and small ledges on exquisite rock are experienced for the duration of the climb.
Medium cams or medium stoppers for the initial crack section and quickdraws for four bolts. The anchor is one 5/8" bolt with a quick shut and rappel ring.
Approaching the crux section on the arete. The bol...
BETA PHOTO: Photo by H. Harris, 05/04/03
Here is a 10b for me.
Mark Collar following Witch Hunt 5.10b on a chilly...
|By David Evans|
May 8, 2003
After two false Slatanic sightings, finally, we know where it is!!!
|By Graham Roff|
Oct 24, 2006
While the climbing is great, it is a very short route with basically 10 or 15 feet of real climbing. I would not really say worthy of the four stars the guide gives it. Definitely fun and well protected though.
Note that if you rap off the single bolt up top you will not make it to the ground with a 60m - you end up having to rap off the end and dropping a couple feet. It works, but be prepared.
|By Bryan G|
Jun 17, 2009
This climb is featured in a video that I created for one of my film classes. For the video we approached via the North Wonderland trail - much longer but more scenic than the Rattlesnake Canyon approach. The video can be seen here
The Slatanic Area has superb positioning up on a ridge, making for a very photogenic climb. Great rock and cool moves on the arete and face, but as Graham said it's got a short crux with a lot of easier climbing. If you're in the area you might also consider scrambling on over to the opposite side of Valley of the Kings and climbing the Firewater Chimney, another 5.10b, and one of the best in the park.
|By C Miller|
Jun 17, 2009
Nice video, thanks for posting Bryan. Now you're ready for South of Heaven.
Dec 30, 2012
I thought the fall potential was bad on the arete/face section before the crack at the top. I wouldn't recommend this to the budding 5.10 leader but then again, that could be said about a lot of routes in the park.
|By Richard Shore|
Jan 5, 2013
Spectacular! Rock quality, position, movement, variety = 4 stars in my book. After leaving the crack at the start, there is a committing mantle move out onto the exposed arÍte to clip the first bolt. It's not too hard, but you will not want to mess it up.
|By Josh Janes|
Apr 7, 2013
The first pro bolt and the bolted anchor atop the formation were replaced courtesy of the ASCA with 1/2" stainless hardware in 2013.
The second pro bolt appears to be in good condition and while the final two pro bolts are showing signs of age, both can be backed up with decent cams (0.5 Camalot).
If you use and appreciate updated bolts in J Tree, consider a donation to the ASCA at www.safeclimbing.org.