||Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||FA (A.4) Rusty Baillie, Bill Claggett 2/71, Corner and entire route, Ajax Greene, Chris Reveley 3/76|
|Season: ||seasonal closures|
|Page Views: ||1,012|
|Submitted By: ||Orphaned on Sep 3, 2007|
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p1 Standard, right of the Sundeck Boulder is a gully system start leading up to a band layer and belay.
p1 "direct" climbs up and right of a roof to small right facing crack ("10a" and a few moves of 5.9 to gain a ledge system that leads right to belay near traditional 1st pitch belay.
P2 is really fine thin crack (5.8) leading to base of right facing dihedral.
p3 is the meats and bones- 5.9ish to get established into corner then up the bald, slick corner with RP brass nuts if you are lucky (crux is above last good piece about 10'). A better corner leads past a little more 5.9 climbing to a belay.
The "John Dugan" takes a right face traverse (PG and 5.9) around the hardest moves in the corner.
p4 is a pretty airy pitch leading up to one last belay 5.8.
p5 5.6 climbing leads to top past a roof and left facing corner.
Primarily a right facing system right of Green Savior and left of Sorcerer's corner.
Brass nuts for original corner, and standard GM rack for balance of route.
Oct 20, 2009
The 5.10R corner is one of the finest pitches I have climbed on Granite Mountain, but be solid and not for the faint of heart.
By Bobby Treadwell
From: Prescott, AZ
Sep 26, 2012
The R pitch is beautiful, but very R.