Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: FA (A.4) Rusty Baillie, Bill Claggett 2/71, Corner and entire route, Ajax Greene, Chris Reveley 3/76
Page Views: 2,695 total · 13/month
Shared By: Gabriel Kerbs on Sep 3, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Witblitz climbs the corner system between The Sorcerer and Green Savior.

P1: To the right of the Sundeck Boulder is a left-trending ramp/gully system. Climb this to the ledges in the prominant  dike layer. (low-5th class, 100')

P1 Direct: Climbs the large flake feature perched against the wall. Start left of the Sundeck boulder and use the  pine tree to step onto the wall. Traverse rightwards with no pro (5.7) until you reach the flake/roof/crack. Climb this feature, which starts with good jams and then it gets wide. A #5 takes some of the pucker factor out of this pitch. Belay on a nice ledge with a small pine tree. (5.10a, 75')

P2: Climb ledgy terrain to a nice, featured right-leaning crack up to the "comfort ledge". The next crack to the right is a 5.8 variation, also on good rock. Belay at the base of the obvious dihedral. (5.5, 75') 

P3: The money pitch. Climb up to the clean, slick corner and follow it to a belay in an alcove, passing a large clump of bear grass along the way (if you treat the bear grass like a jug, you will pay for it in blood! There are face holds that lead around it, you just have to search for them...) (5.10b R, 100')

"John Dugan" Variation: At the stance before the slick corner, traverse right across the face and up to a left-leaning crack which will take you in a circuitous route around the hardest (and unprotected) moves in the corner. (5.9)

Note: The original route starts off the left end of the comfort ledge where it pinches off. Pull an airy move to get established in a crack which leads to a left-leaning crack that takes you back to the dihedral, past the R-rated part. Rarely done, but worthy! (5.10a, 100')

P4: Climb up the chimney past a wild, leaning flake and exit left under the roof (optional belay on ledge).  Continue up moderate cracks and blocky terrain until you're on top (5.8, 120')

Location Suggest change

Primarily a right facing system right of Green Savior and left of Sorcerer's corner.

Protection Suggest change

Standard GM rack. Brass may or may not be helpful in the slick corner. #5 recommend for Witblitz Direct.

Photos

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