Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Stephen Mergenthaler, Michelle Berrus, & Royce Van Evera July 27, 2007
Page Views: 1,197 total · 7/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Mar 13, 2010
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


22 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Very few routes in the Dacks rival the clean and sustained climbing present here. WISWIG combines well-protected face climbing with sustained and technical tic-tac smearing up gritty, off-vertical stone.

Start on the arete just left of the obvious chimney route (Cowpoke Chimney--5.7). Clip the first two bolts from relatively comfortable stances, then move out onto the face for the remainder of the route, getting a couple of so-so rests along the way, while hugging your way up thin seams and dime edges. Phenomenal!!

(Note: The crack between the 7th bolt and the anchor can be protected with a #2 Camalot; however, if you want to keep the grade consistantly 5.11a (and not drop it to 5.6), move right onto the face, clip the bolts and finish with a few moves that require nothing short of swearing magic and levitation.)

Location Suggest change

On the clean, off-vertical face with left-leaning seams about a five minute walk to the left of the Main Face.

Protection Suggest change

Draws, and a .5 Camalot between the 5th and 6th bolt (cruxy!!). 2-bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

loading