Very few routes in the Dacks rival the clean and sustained climbing present here. WISWIG combines well-protected face climbing with sustained and technical tic-tac smearing up gritty, off-vertical stone.
Start on the arete just left of the obvious chimney route (Cowpoke Chimney--5.7). Clip the first two bolts from relatively comfortable stances, then move out onto the face for the remainder of the route, getting a couple of so-so rests along the way, while hugging your way up thin seams and dime edges. Phenomenal!!
(Note: The crack between the 7th bolt and the anchor can be protected with a #2 Camalot; however, if you want to keep the grade consistantly 5.11a (and not drop it to 5.6), move right onto the face, clip the bolts and finish with a few moves that require nothing short of swearing magic and levitation.)
On the clean, off-vertical face with left-leaning seams about a five minute walk to the left of the Main Face.
Draws, and a .5 Camalot between the 5th and 6th bolt (cruxy!!). 2-bolt anchor at the top.
|By Nick Weinberg|
From: Essex, NY
Apr 8, 2011
This route was pretty fun and well protected, but I'm not sure where the start was......