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Cowpoke Chimney T 
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WISWIG T,S 

WISWIG 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Stephen Mergenthaler, Michelle Berrus, & Royce Van Evera July 27, 2007
Page Views: 443
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Mar 13, 2010

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Description 

Very few routes in the Dacks rival the clean and sustained climbing present here. WISWIG combines well-protected face climbing with sustained and technical tic-tac smearing up gritty, off-vertical stone.

Start on the arete just left of the obvious chimney route (Cowpoke Chimney--5.7). Clip the first two bolts from relatively comfortable stances, then move out onto the face for the remainder of the route, getting a couple of so-so rests along the way, while hugging your way up thin seams and dime edges. Phenomenal!!

(Note: The crack between the 7th bolt and the anchor can be protected with a #2 Camalot; however, if you want to keep the grade consistantly 5.11a (and not drop it to 5.6), move right onto the face, clip the bolts and finish with a few moves that require nothing short of swearing magic and levitation.)

Location 

On the clean, off-vertical face with left-leaning seams about a five minute walk to the left of the Main Face.

Protection 

Draws, and a .5 Camalot between the 5th and 6th bolt (cruxy!!). 2-bolt anchor at the top.


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By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Apr 8, 2011

This route was pretty fun and well protected, but I'm not sure where the start was......