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Chicken Head Ranch
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Wishbone Dihedral 
Yellow Dot 

Wishbone Dihedral 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,792
Submitted By: Fred Bonnard on Sep 19, 2010
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Description 

This route is a must do. It has continuous and various climbing that require some thinking. The first crux comes at the 5th bolt plus a delicate move coming out of the crack a few bolts higher.


Location 

This route is the 5th route (East Face) and easy to locate with the obvious dihedral.


Protection 

12 bolts.



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By koreo
From: Denver, CO
Jun 28, 2011

Awesome route, I could just be a pussy, but I think it's a little stout for the grade.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jun 28, 2011

Does it help if my son led it last year when he was 10? There are some kind of inobvious moves, so it may seem tough if you miss the tricks.

By slim
Administrator
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Great route with consistently interesting climbing from the moment you leave the ground until you clip the chains. From the ground, it looks fairly easy, but there is some weird geometry up there.

By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Jul 8, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Killer moves on bullet rock, certainly one of the best .11s at DH.

By Pink Thunder
From: Colorado Springs
May 6, 2013

This route is awesome. Best one I've found yet at Devil's Head. Do it, but it ain't 11b; I'd say solid 11c.

By KDog
May 27, 2013
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

I'm not in the greatest climbing shape at the moment, but this felt pretty hard for 11b. Very sustained. Maybe I wasn't reading some of moves right, but it felt tricky for sure.