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 ADVANCED
Burlap Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arch Rival T 
Arrow Place T 
Children of the Sun 10b T 
K-Day T 
Poultroonicus aka Moving Over Stone T 
Prism Corner, The T 
Teabob T 
Unknown Mixed Route T 
Unknown Route AKA Broken Arrow. T 
Unknown Route AKA Straight Arrow T 
Wish Bone T 

Wish Bone 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mark Moore, Lars Holbek, Dave Davis
Page Views: 402
Submitted By: phil broscovak on Mar 14, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Riding the sandstone wave on Wishbone. Photo: Lar...

Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Approximately 100' to the right of Arrow Place is a prominent undulating crack system. The middle of the first pitch is interesting and entertaining. However the start and finish of the first pitch involves deceptively awkward climbing and tenuous, hard-to-get gear. The offwidth bomb-bay chimney at the top of pitch one is short but intimidating. And gear can only really be gotten very deep in the crack. The belay at the top of P.1 is a manky collection of aging detritus. It is more of a history display than a substantial anchor. All in all this route is worth doing at least once.

Protection 

I found much of the pro to be difficult and tenuous.


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By phil broscovak
Mar 14, 2005

I am not sure how the program elected to give this a vs rating, probably because I made mention of the less than ideal protection. I would not consider this route vs. Maybe s (with a small s). But I would consider it harder than the 5.8 the guide gives it. In fact I think it is much harder and more serious than Arrow Place but there is NO reason to get hurt on this route. On a side note I got a camming unit stuck in the back of the bomb bay slot right below the belay station. You can have it if you can get it.
By rockratrei
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 21, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Glad someone else thought this was more difficult than Arrow Place. As a side note on my first attempt I fell on a cliped "fixed" piece at the awkward spot ~ 20' off the deck. Said "fixed" piece popped - fortunately the alien below it held and kept me 5" from the deck. The fixed gear was a home made nut - probably from the original ascent. I managed to go back and bag it the second time but not without a lot of grumbling. It's worth doing once. Side note - I was working on a line in between Arrow Place and Wishbone (left a nut and never finished it).
By Matt Kuehl
From: red rock
Sep 9, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A fine old school climb. Much better than the above comments would suggest. Bring plentiful small gear and nuts with a few larger cams no bigger than #4. The anchor at the top could be improved so bring some new rappel cord if you're concerned. Not your brainless 5.8 so get psyched!
By Stone Nude
Jan 18, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Wow, Matt, you ain't lyin'! A really standout old school funky splitter, with section after section of weird but great climbing. I made the mistake of going right side in on that upper flare and paid for it...was much easier to climb left side in with foot assists from the arÍte. I think the gear deserves mention- I took doubles from 00-4 and thought the second four wasn't necessary (just save the 4 for the flare+use it for a push piece), but I could have placed a few extra .5 sized pieces and been really happy about it, and feel that #2-6 HB brass and a set of ballnuts were KEY-the FA team was undoubtedly banging in pins through the thinnest section, and without offset and tiny camming options, this climb is a lot closer to R than PG13. I brought 15 slings and was underprepared for this thing-it's a LOOONG pitch and if you start getting rope drag on that flare like I did, you will be spending more time praying than climbing. Since you need two ropes to get down anyway, it would be a great idea to lead this half rope style and kill the rope drag altogether.

Last but not least, the sketchball anchor has been replaced with 1/2 inch stainless and Fixe double ring hangers. It is bomber, if you like seeing solid anchors like this on 1970s classics, donate to the ASCA, they bought the metal!