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Unsorted Routes:

Wise Guys 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Page Views: 660
Submitted By: James Loveridge on Sep 17, 2007
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Description 

Start to the Left of the rotten/shattered overhanging seam. Do a couple moves on side-pulls to get established on wall and traverse directly Right to good hold at base of shattered crack. Climb rotten seam up and right until it ends at rest stance in shallow dihedral. Follow shallow corner up to the hanging block at which point you gave 2 choices: Go straight up lie-backing hanging block (burly but secure) -or- sneak left and do easier but quite delicate and insecure moves which reward you with a no hands rest leaning against the Left side of the hanging block. Finish on good crimps up short final head wall. Kinda a "gimme" at 12a (some suggest 11d) but the botom bit is pumpy and the top section is tricky. It's a great TR as well as "heady" lead. fun and varied climbing.


Location - History 

This climb is located on the north end of the Amphitheater between Superior Crack/Superior ArÍte and Driving in Duluth. The top is about 20' to the climbers right (North) of the Superior ArÍte promontory. Look for a 5" wide "sideways tombstone" hanging block that juts out a foot or so from the cliff face 10 feet below the top. Set up TR or post-lead anchor here. HISTORY: This is a former Aid climb known as "We Trade Our Youth For Wisdom" (A4-). Rick Kollath did the FA on aid. Mike Dahlberg did the FFA with pre-placed gear for the overhanging bottom rotten/shattered section (just the first 30').


Protection 

Although it would not be impossible to place gear in the bottom section on lead it is HIGHLY recommended to pre-equip the bottom 30 feet! On rappel it takes a considerable amount of time and skill to finagle gear into the funky slots and rotten cracks. Even then, most of it is not extremely confidence inspiring (It's ok, just not what I'd call Bomber). Bring a set of stoppers and TCU/Alien/C3's, medium sized cams up to BD #2 (3") as well as a long (48") runner to sling the "sideways tombstone" up top.



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