Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Outhouse Rock - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Diagonal Chimney T 
Loo Sanction (aka Mt. Witness), The T 
Straight Flush T 
Strawberry Jam T 
Wise Crack T 

Wise Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Joe Herbst 2/72.
Page Views: 371
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 22, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This route barely gets a star. The majority of the route is OK, even if a little grainy, but the non-crux top is just kinda bad- quite grainy (loose) and it's a hollow flake with dubious pro off of the ledge up there- the consequences would be unpleasant if you fell by no more mistake than trusting bad rock- which you kinda have to do.

On the East Face of Outhouse rock, find a rounded pillar/buttress on the right hand end.This route climbs the steep right-facing dihedral formed by the union of this buttress and the wall. It is a little dirtier than some other routes and grainy up top. Save for the top, the route is OK.


Protection 

A standard rack of nuts and cams to 3 or 3.5"



Comments on Wise Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 12, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Decent climbing, but the lowest quality of the three moderate cracks on this face. One star out of five.

By Dustysdawg
Feb 11, 2008

I didn't find this route loose at all. The pro was good and it required every kind of technique from finger locks to chimney. For gear you can protect the opening moves with a #4. On the route bring doubles of Aliens, green through red, and single cams #.75-3.
1.5 stars.