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Routes in Jebel Rum
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Black Magic T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Flight of Fancy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Goldfinger T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Inshallah Factor T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Lionheart T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pillar of Wisdom T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rock Empire T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Towering Inferno T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Troubador T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 1100 ft (333 m), 17 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | W. Colonna, A. Howard, D. Taylor, 3 October 1986 |
| Page Views: | 9,803 total · 88/month |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on Feb 9, 2015 |
| Admins: | Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Entrance fee required; you are also supposed to register with the Tourist Police if climbing
Details
As of May 2022, the entry fee to Wadi Rum was 5JD/person. The alternative to paying the entrance fee is to buy a Jordan Pass. If you get the Jordan Pass before you arrive in Jordan, your US visa fee ($56 US) is waived and the Jordan Pass allows access to places like Petra, Shobak Castle, etc.
At the Wadi Rum entrance complex is a Tourism Police office. If you are climbing at Wadi Rum, you are supposed to register with the police and give them a photocopy of your passport. Bringing a spare photocopy to give them saves some time, as they don't have a photocopier of their own.
At the Wadi Rum entrance complex is a Tourism Police office. If you are climbing at Wadi Rum, you are supposed to register with the police and give them a photocopy of your passport. Bringing a spare photocopy to give them saves some time, as they don't have a photocopier of their own.
Description
The Pillar Of Wisdom has evolved into the area moderate classic and this route on the Hammad's Domes section of the East Face of Jebel Rum is obvious and striking as viewed from the Rum Valley.
After locating the Pillar, scramble to its base via a couple of easy pitches and then continue up the left side of the Pillar. Many pitches can be linked together. Though the original pitch count has been noted to be 17, I have done the route in 9 or 10 when stretching out the pitches. Others have probably even further reduced the pitch count. A lot of cruising terrain can be passed quickly on various sections of the route.
Upper part of the route, a ramp leads out left and up and some signs of other parties should make the route obvious, but good route finding skills are crucial to success. The climbing is quite straight forward until the final face moves on the exit pitch which can seem tricky.
A great wall route not to be missed!
The descent can be confusing, but walk off from the top of the Pillar up the right hand dome and continue NW past a hollow with two large juniper trees, then left around a final dome to a sandy area where it meets Hammad's Route. Look for Cairns.
After locating the Pillar, scramble to its base via a couple of easy pitches and then continue up the left side of the Pillar. Many pitches can be linked together. Though the original pitch count has been noted to be 17, I have done the route in 9 or 10 when stretching out the pitches. Others have probably even further reduced the pitch count. A lot of cruising terrain can be passed quickly on various sections of the route.
Upper part of the route, a ramp leads out left and up and some signs of other parties should make the route obvious, but good route finding skills are crucial to success. The climbing is quite straight forward until the final face moves on the exit pitch which can seem tricky.
A great wall route not to be missed!
The descent can be confusing, but walk off from the top of the Pillar up the right hand dome and continue NW past a hollow with two large juniper trees, then left around a final dome to a sandy area where it meets Hammad's Route. Look for Cairns.
Location
Cross the desert to the South West to Wadi Shelaali and move up to terraces in a cirque between this pillar (Two obvious huge chimneys on both sides of the Pillar).
The somewhat obscure descent as noted above. The Tony Howard guidebook descent description has been known to make it even more confusing than it should be. Use good mountain sense and intuition.
The somewhat obscure descent as noted above. The Tony Howard guidebook descent description has been known to make it even more confusing than it should be. Use good mountain sense and intuition.
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