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Wisconsin's Top Ten Leads Under 5.10

Original Post
James Schroeder · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,166

Okay, it was nine degrees in Baraboo this morning, rock climbing season is not done for the winter, but it is in reduced capacity. That being said, I think a controversial list argument is worthy of getting into. My criteria are quality of climbing, position and history...without further ado:

1. Peter's Project (5.7), Devil's Lake - arguably the best moderate in the state.
2. Wiessner Face (5.7), Devil's Lake - a close second, is there a better combination of position and climbing in the state?
3. Brinton's Crack (5.6), Devil's Lake - fine climbing, great position, and classic history...a must-do.
4. Air (5.6), Necedah - engaging, mildly heady, and ending at an amazing location.
5. Swiss Cheese (5.8), Hillbilly Hollow - a thuggish start leads to balanced pulling on perfect patina edges.
6. Lost Face Finger Crack into Lost Face Overhangs I & II (5.8), Devil's Lake - takes the proudest line up one of the tallest walls in the state.
7. Curving Crack (5.8), Devil's Lake - an excellent primer for crack technique from hands to arms, on perfect stone.
8. Birch Tree Crack (5.8), Devil's Lake - a one-move-wonder crux, leads to aesthetic jamming on impeccable magenta stone that almost glows from within.
9. Roger's Roof (5.8+), Devil's Lake - an entrance exam for aspiring Devil's Lake headpointers - a finicky, hard-to-protect start, leads to a well-protected, easily-defined crux and easier climbing above.
10. PWB Arete (5.9-), Hillbilly Hollow - short, but fun climbing that is different from what one encounters on most other routes in the state.

Let's see your list!

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,036

1. Wiessner's Face
2. Brinton's Crack
3. Berkley
4. Chicago
5. Jolly Rodger
6. Charybdis
7. Watermarks
8. Upper Diagonal
9. Roger's Roof
10. Lost Face

I just couldn't bring myself to add sandstone routes to the list. There are so many excellent quartzite leads at DL.

Josh Olson · · Durango, CO · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 255

Not in any order, but I guess if you pressed me, I'd say PWB arete is up there with Lost Face Finger to Overhang 2.

Dippy D
Lost Temple Corner
PWB Arete
Brinton's Direct
Upper Diagonal
Tang Shwang
The Right Twin
North Country Crack
Lost Face Finger to lost face overhang 2
And getting to the top of Minor Mass somehow, bonus points for actively ignoring the guidebook and this site for a bit more adventure.

I'd say honorable mentions to air(rock quality is meh), peters(two moves of .7 and a bunch of .4), via apia(gotta love awful, though), the 5.7 dihedral at the hollow(dirty. always), stuck knee(you'd think you see it coming with the name, then bam), and midbluff stuff (short).
Curving Crack's start is pretty meh, I'd rather get on American Beauty Crack.
Mung, Lechery, and Debauchery were all really good, but I've only been on those guys once, so I feel they can't get on the list. Being able to do the same route over and over is what made this list for me.

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,036

There are some awesome obscurities on that list Josh!

Zach Parsons · · Centennial, CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 95
Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,130

Top #1 Worst Leads Under 5.10: Michael's Project

James Schroeder · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,166
Andy Hansen wrote:Top #1 Worst Leads Under 5.10: Michael's Project
I will literally never live my love of that route down...will I?

On that note, I'd certainly rather lead Michael's than Vacillation...
Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,130

James I had no idea you liked that route. Good for you... at least somebody does!

My Top 10 Under 10:

Upper Diagonal, 5.9
Chicago, 5.9
Wobbly Dihedral, 5.9
Lost Face Overhangs, 5.8
Charybdis, 5.7 (Mostly because I had an EPIC ground up ascent my first year climbing...)
Dippy Diagonal, 5.7
Lost Face, 5.6
Full Stop, 5.6
Brinton's Crack, 5.6
Queen's Throne, 5.5

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,036
Andy Hansen wrote:Top #1 Worst Leads Under 5.10: Michael's Project
Agreed!
rlong · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0

PWB Arête? Really? The guys who put that route up are a-holes......

If you are including a route from Hillbilly, it has to be End of the Innocence. That's class right there, both the route and the developer.

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,931

Sounds like someone wants to start an old fight?!? And cares less about an actual route than the back story. So now that it's started, what's the story? That would be more interesting than two people agreeing that Michaels is the worst, when I actually quite enjoy it! That long move out right to the jug on possible crap gear is fun and comiting and the next 50 feet are nothing but awesome climbing. Under a small roof, killer jams and great gear.

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,036
rlong wrote:PWB Arête? Really? The guys who put that route up are a-holes...... If you are including a route from Hillbilly, it has to be End of the Innocence. That's class right there, both the route and the developer.
Sure, we might be a-holes, but PWB's still a good route!

Alright Mr. Long, let's see your list...
Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,931

My Wednesday am entertainment. As I actually can't climb anything today. I am stuck in western Nebraska all day long. Might go out to a local steak joint for dinner though.

F the list, what's the story?!?

Ron L Long · · Out yonder in Wisco. · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 90

Sorry Jon, you'll have to continue to enjoy Nebraska. Nothing to see here, there is no story. "Joined today" Chris? Well sort of. I joined today because it had been so long since I logged in here, I forgot my log in info. That's been straightened out. So again, nothing to see here......

Ron L Long · · Out yonder in Wisco. · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 90

I am one of the PWB a-holes....

James Schroeder · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,166

Man, it's great to have you back - I hope this is the toe in the water that leads to a swim!

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,036

Ron, is it too soon to mention the bolting shenanigans that went into End of the Innocence (or was it Curse of the Drill)?

Drill bits get smaller when they get dull...

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,931

Really?!? Damn. I was hoping for an old school throw down. Nebraska blows...

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,931

Jay, is that an attack on Mr. longs man hood?

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,036
jon jugenheimer wrote:Jay, is that an attack on Mr. longs man hood?
You trying to start the throwdown Jon?
Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,931

Damn straight I am. You suck Jay!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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