C. Treiber looking strong on Whiskey (photo G. For...
Description
Whiskey a Go Go is the left most climb on the Y-Crack wall, just left of the saddle between the wall and the spire. The climb follows discontinuous cracks up the steep face.
The bottom of the face is heavily featured and offers 5.10ish climbing up to the second bolt. The features eventually run out and the climber is forced into exeedingly thin and dynamic moves to link the widely spaced cracks. Once past the crux, some welcome pockets will be encountered. However, they offer little reprieve since the pump-meter will certainly be redlining at this point. A classic top out deposits the climber on a ledge with anchors.
All in all: 50 feet of climbing, increasingly strenuous moves with no rests on perfect, beautiful sandstone. I call it the best hard route in Wisconsin.
Protection
Bolts. Whiskey was originally led on dicey natural protection, but has since been retro-bolted for the benefit of all.
Don't remember seeing any ticks there at the beginning of October.
As for the route, one of the best ever! .12d at the lake ;)
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Mar 2, 2007
12d at the Lake? If it was at the Lake, it would be vertical, painfully thin, and neglected (ala Phlogiston). Good thing it's not at the Lake.
I think Whiskey would rank as a classic at the grade at any area in the U.S. and is much better than routes of the same grade in places like Rifle, Wild Iris, etc.
I agree Jay, didn't mean to be overly flip about the grade. It truly is one of the best routes anywhere, especially at 13a and of course especially being in WI. There probably isn't a comparable route at the Wild Iris, that is for sure.
Phlogiston is a pretty apt comparison for the DL comparison to Whiskey...unleadable...contrived...
By TravisMelin From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va May 5, 2008 rating: 5.13a
Too bad that no matter how you shoot pics of this route they just never come out looking very inspiring
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 5, 2008
Are you dissin my photos Travis?
By TravisMelin From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va May 5, 2008 rating: 5.13a
Haha! noo nothing like that. The photos just dont do the route justice. Ive got a bunch of pics on it myself from years ago, and I was there yesterday taking some too. But no matter how you shoot, the light is always goofy, as is the angle...
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 5, 2008
Good. I know what you mean about the lighting. It's all of those pesky trees near there. Still, I'm sure we'd all love to see your photos Travis.
Will, it was retro fitted by the FA'ist, if i'm remembering correctly, because he wanted more people to get on it and thought it'd be a waste otherwise. Calm down.
By TravisMelin From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va Apr 28, 2009 rating: 5.13a
Classic case of non-resident passing judgement on a route they have never done. You really gotta understand the history, type of rock , etc before you can start making comments like this.
Will, this line was originally lead with two bolts and natural pro. As Steve said, it was retro bolted so more would get on it. Dave was a hard man and lead a lot of scary shit (props Dave), but I would never lead this thing without the bolts.
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