By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Jun 4, 2007 rating: 5.12+
Where was the hold that broke?
By TravisMelin From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va Jun 14, 2007
The hold that broke was the pinch just above the hueco, right at the top of the route. It was a nasty wide pinch and is now a very positive pistol grip.
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Jun 15, 2007 rating: 5.12+
Ah. So right when you are pretty damn pumped. I only got on this route this year so hadn't been on it before. Thanks. Great route anyway.
By Remo From: Madison, WI Jul 15, 2007 rating: 5.12d
I can't remember, but was it Scott S. who broke the hold? Trav, you might know. I remember climbing the route before the hold broke and then one day it was a giant pinch grip that it is today. I remember old school UW-L students calling this a 13b. Dave always said 13a, I agree. Funny how the Meader wall can change.
By TravisMelin From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va Jul 23, 2007
yea remo, scott was the one. The routes feel a lot more solid now a days compared to 5 years ago at least at the meter wall. These routes take soooooooooooooo long to get clean.
Other holds beyond the pinch have broken off this thing. Besides the pinch, all holds I can think of have only made this route harder (especially the damage Gabe did while working into his eventual redpoint :) - that guy just cranks too hard). Current grade is accurate to the last time I was on it. Great route.
By Ben Ingman From: Denver, CO Nov 9, 2007 rating: 5.12+
Best route on the wall. It's not over till you clip the chains!
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