The most classic line in the park. This is a tall, steep problem with a series of side pull and gaston pockets. The movement flows well with a wide selection of footholds and positive handholds while steadily growing harder until the lip which sports a rather thoughtful mantle. It aint over until your standing up...
Protection
It is high and the landing slopes. Several pads are nice.
FYI to Jeremy S. thanks for the work on this boulder. I believe i am the first accentionist in recent years, september 2006. Doesn't matter to me too much. I try to remain behind the scene. Other routes in that area i've done also, they are unnamed but good quality. The names placed on the boulder, the routes are good and no need to change them! Let us all enjoy the little gems scattered across our state. Brian Pederson
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Dec 11, 2007
I think Paul Jones may have done this problem as early as 1996 or 7. I remember him telling me about it.
I cleaned this boulder in 1989 and did the godfather the same day. I remember doing 5 or 6 problems on this boulder. I told Eric Z and John Sherman about it and they sent it on there stone crusade tour.
Well, throughout the history of bouldering in this country I would hate to have to guess at the number of "re-first-ascents" that have taken place... And I am sure I am as guilty as anyone. However, I had no misgivings about the Godfather. When posting this area, I called the prominent line the "Godfather" in tribute to Dave Groth's efforts throughout the heartland. It is a nickname he endures I am sure, but never the less it was an attempt to honor those who taught me, and I knew he had fired the thing a long time ago, cause he told me so and how to find it. I also stated in the general overview of Box Canyon that these things were done back in the eighties...
And for that matter, between Dave, Eric Z., and Sherman, every hold on this boulder was probably at one time scrubbed clean and chalked. Lichen grows fast back there in Wisconsin, in case you haven't been around long enough to see this fact first hand.
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Jan 18, 2009 rating: V4
Good history lesson and lesson in FA's Dave and JJ.
Sweaty- change it to 4 stars and keep the unanimous vote going!! Come on dude!
On another note, I looked at this boulder and problem in late summer '07 (was alone with one pad) and chickened out after seeing the height & landing. In April '08 I returned after going to JT and geting on White Rasatafarian. Suddenly it didn't look so tall and the landing looked downright fluffy... So hop on it, great line, great boulder. Spring can't come soon enough...
By sweatpants From: Chicago, Il Jan 23, 2009 rating: V4
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