While Box Canyon does not have the quanity that other areas in the park have, it does offer several of the alpha classics to be found. The largest boulder in this grouping, and maybe the largest boulder in Wisconsin, contains in all rights the most classic problem at Governor Dodge. The first known ascent of this overhanging line of sidepull pockets and laybacks was done in the mid eighties with safe estimates putting it at around 20 years old. However since this is one of the clearest areas to see off the road, one has to wonder if this rig didn't fall sooner to unknown hands.
The area sports about 6 really good lines and a handful of other less inspiring lines. Unless you flash all the highballs this area has enough to keep you occupied for half a day or so. The good side of the big boulder gets decent afternoon sun in late fall/early winter.
As always I appreciate historical info if there is some to be had and can make appropriate changes.
Getting There
From the front office take a right and head towards Cox Hollow lake. There will be a windy section in the road skirted by praries that eventually drops down into the "hollow". At the base of the hill are two parking areas, one on either side of the main road. Park in the left one signed Box Canyon. You can see the boulders from this parking area. You just drove by them...
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Box Canyon Boulders:
A long line that starts out in the hole and works up separate features to join Godfather at the top. Sharp low holds (ST) lead to a pointed jug. With low left undercling reach up and hit the first in a series of slopers. Work left to a positive undercling rail and the crux. Follow that sucka to the top through more crimps, pockets, and flakes....[more]Browse More Classics in WI
This boulder has been done completely, I'm positive of that. You have to earn FA's not create them. I will gladly show you some undone rock if you'd like.
By TravisMelin From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va Apr 27, 2009
I may have to disagree a bit here. The line you speak of Paul does sound a bit contrived, but to my knowledge, undone. By your description it sounds like it simply climbs on the face only between godfather and all in the family? If you are looking for a challenge I say go for it.
I put in two days of unearthing the top and did not get to finish. I would like to clean the rest and there might be two more lines. I would like it if I could get on them first, but not the end of the world if not (I will just hate you for ever). I don't think they will be harder then V3 put would like to get then cleaned up right.
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