An icy January day, with extensive snow brooming r...
Description
Governor Dodge State Park has numerous rock features. Some are suitable for climbing, and some (perhaps most) are not. The overarching consideration for anyone climbing at Governor Dodge should be climbing only on formations that can hold up to the abuse. The rock here is Sandstone, and some of it is solid. Much of it, though, is fragile or crumbly and should be left alone. The rocks came before the climbers, so the rocks have the right to remain. Climbers aren't exactly adored by the DNR, so be overly considerate of the rock and other park users. The climbing history at Governor Dodge is not nearly as storied as it is at Devil's Lake, so we as climbers can take nothing for granted (not that you should at the Lake, either). There are some bolted routes at Governor Dodge. When the DNR found these it did not make them happy, so further bolting of routes is not acceptable. That said, enjoy!
See Qual Wall for the bolted routes, Deutschlander Wall for TR's and the remainder are bouldering areas.
Travis Melin FA on "It's Oral Over" V6 @ The Complex
The early crux. Submitted By: TravisMelin on Mar 5, 2009
John Dobbe on "Open Season" V4/5 @ Barrel Boulders
Jay Knower on "Secret Agent Man" 5.13a @ Qual Wall
Aiming for better holds and sunshine above. The "administrator" on SAM. Submitted By: JasonH on Mar 2, 2007
Getting There
From Madison, take Hwy 18/151 to Dodgeville. Turn right (north) on Hwy 23 until you come to the entrance a few miles up the road. The park is on the east side of Hwy 23.
Please Note:
Current issues:
1. Due to Governor Dodge's ongoing bouldering renaissance, and the resulting influx of information, please limit your comments to informative ones. Thank you.
2. Climbing is not disallowed at the park, we are simply another user group. Please do not do anything to jeapordize our relations with the park.
3. If climbing near a campsite, do not park at that site if there are people camping there or hike through if they are at their site. Find another way to the rock. Most areas have alternate directions.
3a. Please note the new parking recommendations for the Qual Wall and Lonely Boulders noted on the Qual Wall page.
4. No fixed anchors may be installed, ie. no bolts.
5. Holds break at the Dodge but please don't climb if it's obviously wet!!!
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Governor Dodge State Park:
In many ways THE line on the backbone. Start out in the middle of the block on a good sidepull. Work straight up past hard holds and an almost ghostlike crimp up high to the horizontal. Go up through a niche at the top. A very tall, proud line....[more]Browse More Classics in WI
One flaw i have found in this site is the inability to change details on climbs. for instance if someone loads a new climb as project no one but the person who initially reported it can change the name or grade. for instance that highball at Camp B that someone gave a grade of 6+ that's a v2. it would be nice to be able to change something like that so it doesnt mess people up in the future going to the area for the first time. Also it would be nice to be able to change a name once an FA is done. For instance the bulge project at camp b has 2 variations. when it's done it will then prolly have 2 names and 2 grades where at that point it would be nice to adjust it accordingly. just some thoughts...
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Jun 20, 2008
Sweatpants, I'd be happy to make any changes that you see fit. Just email me and let me know.
As for ratings, some disagreement is normal and healthy for the site. However, if the original poster is waaay off (like calling a V2 a V6+) then, it might be the case that the op didn't climb the route. I'd just reassign it to someone who has. Just let me know what you think.
If you are climbing at Governor Dodge please respect the fact that this is sandstone. DO NOT CLIMB on flakes or crimps that look weak till every thing is dry. Be smart about what you are climbing, not climbing some thing for the day so that it can be there for years is a no brainer.
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Mar 23, 2009
Correct me if I am wrong, but AFAIK bolting is not allowed at any State Park in WI, or MN for that matter right? Devils Lake and Interstate Park have no bolts. Same for Blue Mound and Tettegouche in MN. The bolts at the Dodge were installed in former times and the park has said no more. IMO we're lucky they're still there.
You are correct sir! No bolting on DNR land I believe. Oh well. No Biggie. Keep in mind that much of the longer routes at Dodge turn into pure choss most of the time.
We had a talk with the Rangers today about climbing and the following issues came up;
-Anyone caught installing anchors will at least severely damage climber relations with the park staff. And perhaps arrested I think, but consequences were not discussed.
-If there are campers in Group Site B do NOT wall through the site!!!! Please either park at the paved parking lot with the multiple bathrooms and walk up the hill or park in the gravel parking lot and head down the road a bit and then up the hill. They were VERY concerned about this!
-Please do not cut branches or try to establish trail. Park staff have been moving logs in the way to try and stop new trails from being worn in. They have better things to do with their time. TREAD LIGHTLY!!
-Do NOT drive around closed gates!!! The number one negative incident they remembered about climbers was when someone (who shall remain nameless) drove around the gates to Camp B. This was a MAJOR issue because it interfered with their sharpshooting!
Generally speaking, follow the park rules and there won't be any issues. They were very friendly to us and didn't have any hostility towards climbers but they have many user groups to manage and have to compromise appropriately.
Any info on the rest of the bluffs thought the park? choss? bad lines? access issues? Ive been to the gov about a dozen times and the recent development is great!
By TravisMelin From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va Apr 22, 2009
danny, I would say that a good majority of the obvious bluffs have been explored (mostly choss). All the good rock I have ever come across is posted on this site. That said there are still a bunch of less obvious spots that are in need of exploration, and may yield some sweet new boulders. If you want to do some exploration, let me know, and I will point you in the direction of some areas that might have some good stone...
Funny how I can mention that very thing Paul just stated, but I got flamed here on MP for even mentioning making people aware of the dangers of climbing on wet sandstone. So where are those people now??? Thx for pointing that out Paul, I for one agree with you.
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Sep 14, 2009
John I hear ya-- I sort of remember that exchange. I think Steve's point (pretty sure it was Steve) was that some of/most of the sandstone at GD is friable and stuff breaks even when bone dry. At Red Rocks, they say no climbing for 48 hours after rain for this reason. I don't know where the reality lies for the Dodge. I think some reasonable exercise in self-control is warranted. If holds are obviously wet, I say don't climb. Plus it's no fun then anyway. If it's been a day or two since the downpour and stuff seems dry...
My wife and I climbed out there yesterday for the first time (just moved here from California) and we were the only people at the crag!! Did we miss a memo? A beautiful day for climbing and some gorgeous routes, yet not one other climber in the area...wow. Anyway, we did the 10's on Qual wall and I thought all of them were good routes worth a climb. We'll be heading back soon to start working that 5.11a lieback, that thing looks awesome.
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