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Son of a Great Chimney Direct 

5.12a

   

FA: Dave Groth
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 75 feet
Views: 912 page views

Submitted By: David A Groth on Jun 9, 2007


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Liebacks on Son of a Great Chimney Direct. August ...


Description 

Do the first half of of the regular route and finish up the shallow dihedral left and center on the buttress, climb the center face instead of the corner. Climbing is sustained with a mantle/dino at the finish.


Location 

just left of the regular route.


Protection 

good wire with 2-3 offset cams



Photos of Son of a Great Chimney Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Devils Lake. Lower crux of Son of a Great Chimney and Son of a Great Chimney Direct. Photo: Darin Limvere.

Devils Lake. Lower crux of Son of a Great Chimney ...

Son of a Great Chimney Direct. Crux section near the top. Photo: Darin Limvere.

Son of a Great Chimney Direct. Crux section near t...

Son of a Great Chimney Direct. Last (crux) move.

Son of a Great Chimney Direct. Last (crux) move.

Henning on Son of a Great Chimney Direct.

Henning on Son of a Great Chimney Direct.


Comments on Son of a Great Chimney Direct Add Comment
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By richard bechler
Jun 26, 2007

You BAAstard! You stole my route! Just when I was going to make a come back!

By Kris Gorny
Aug 11, 2008
rating: 5.12a PG13

A key flake broke off at the crux and the exit moves may now be easier than they used to be (no dyno). Really great route that protects reasonably well.

Offset Aliens are perfect for protecting the top moves.

By Travis Hibbard
Sep 1, 2008

Did this on TR over Labor Day weekend, absolutely amazing route. The finishing moves didn't seem too hard so i'm guessing Kris is right on with the finish.

Incredible lead Kris

Best route at DL

By Kris Gorny
Sep 16, 2008
rating: 5.12a PG13

Thanks, Travis. Son of the Great Chimney and the direct variation would be mega-classics at any crag. Hats off to Pete Cleveland and Dave Groth.