I guess I would give it an "R" due to injury potential. Slipping and falling from the difficult opening moves could be nasty. And if you cut near the exit of the climb, you'll likely deck on the ledge unless the belayer takes up bunch of slack. Otherwise really great route with bouldery moves throughout. The crux is well protected.
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Oct 12, 2009 rating: 5.11b R
Paul, I can't remember much, grey alien, green nut, and #3 BD camalot equalized with a superlight rock in the horizontal, but you should rap in and tinker with what works off your rack before taking anyone's word for it. Some of the placements are finnicky as I recall. I am told that this climb has seen deckage so make sure the placements are good. Go for it!
The gear to start was poor, I think a small brassie, then a good nut in the vertical seam, a couple of great cams in the horizontal and run out to the top. This starts on a pedestal and a fall at the start could be disastrous, maybe anchor the belayor? Bring everything you got and put in as much as possible.
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