That's a "1983" at the bottom. Tom moved on to Co...
Description
Start at a seam below the obvious roof with a crack running through it. Thin moves will take you to a large hollow flake. The thing is pretty solid though, and on lead you are sticking wires in behind it. Some big moves through the roof will lead you to a hand crack and easier climbing to the top.
Location
Great tower, East face.
Protection
Wires, small cams, and a couple hand sized pieces for the top.
12b is a little on the sandy side. I think it all depends on how dynamic you want to climb the thing. I lead it in 97 with just a couple tries and at the same time could do Bagatelle on command. I think 12c is probably pretty acurate. Peace-
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Oct 11, 2006
This summer, I rapped down Steak Sauce to check out the gear. I found that the entire left side of the crack consists of an expando-type flake. It is entirely detached except for one small section. Others had told me that the flake was sketchy, but I didn't believe them until I looked at it for myself. I came to the conclusion that gear placed behind the flake would be dubious at best. Therefore. I think this climb deserves an R rating.
Does anyone have any info about this flake? Has anyone fallen on gear placed behind it?
I had some good pieces below the flake, and some wires in the flake itself. I believe I took one small hang/fall on those wires in the flake. I will admit it is kind of spooky, but I can really only think of one .12 at DL that isn't. I sent it next try, sooo... I guess if you want to lead it, just be in good shape....Peace-
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