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Cleopatra's Needle
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Cleo's Needle Southwest Dihedral 
Cleos Needle-Southwest Rib 
Northeast Comfort Route 
Northwest Side 

Cleo's Needle Southwest Dihedral 

5.6

   

FA: ??
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Season: All
Views: 433 page views

Submitted By: John W. Knoernschild on Jul 16, 2008


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Description 

Start in the Dihedral on the Southwest side of the needle. It is the left most crack on that side. Continue up through overhang. Make an awkward move or 2 and continue up to the small ledge at the base of the summit block. Move around to the left (west) and continue up on easy holds. There is no pro for the last 15 ft here. Move up and clip the big ring on top. Don't forget to stand up and enjoy the view.


Location 

On the southwest side of the needle. Start in the left most crack in the dihedral.


Protection 

Small cams, small wires, small to medium tricams



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 19, 2009
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 16, 2008

When me and my partner Paul reached the summit, we had a safety meeting. With each cough you could feel the block wobble. We freaked out a bit at first and then just starting geeking out, which didn't help with the wobble either. After a few minutes of laughter and enjoying the view, we rapped down.

By Nick Rhoads
Jul 16, 2008

LOL! Been that way for years! Welcome to the club.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 16, 2008

What's been that way for years? Safety meetings?

By Nick Rhoads
Jul 17, 2008

Well, I'm not quite sure what a "safety meeting" is, but I can say that damn block has been freaking people out for some time now, and the club
I'm referring to is the club of being freaked out. Climb on!
I don't think Mr. Sanders trolls this site but if he's out there, but Ben I wish I had a photo of the look on your face when we were up there and he discovered the whole damn thing was moving!

P.S. I've just been informed what a "safety meeting" is. Thank you to Vince for enlightening me :) And, yes it's been that way for years.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 17, 2008

Jay, I think both have been that way for years. LOL!

I wish I had a camera so Paul could see the look on his face. Sheer terror. Then visions of the hole block falling and taking us with it!

By Tom Hanson
From: Castle Rock, CO
Jul 18, 2008

It's been rocking since at least the late seventies

By Kris Gorny
Jul 23, 2008

And one day it's gonna go 'boom'...

By Andrew Krosbakken
Nov 21, 2008

So is this needle even safe to climb?? I don't want the thing coming down when Im on there?

Do a lot of people still climb it?

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 21, 2008

Andrew,

It's been rocking for eons (or since the late 70's--same thing). The single bolt used for rapping off the top should be more of a concern.

Seriously, though, the route is worth doing. It's a classic DL experience.

By Andrew Krosbakken
Nov 24, 2008

Now is that whole needle wobblin or just the "little" block that is the last like 5 or so feet?

By Nick Rhoads
Nov 24, 2008

Just the last block I believe.

By Andrew Krosbakken
Nov 24, 2008

ok good, that makes it a little less insane. Thanks


Jay? can you second this? just the last 5 or 6 feet.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 25, 2008

Yeah. Nick's right. It's unnerving but I never got the feeling like it would fall off.

By James M Schroeder
From: FIB town USA
Nov 25, 2008

It's unnerving, but I don't think it's going anywhere...

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Apr 2, 2009

It's more like the last 10ft or so that is wobbly. But I dont think it's going anywhere either. Just unnerving to feel it move when your hooked up to it.

By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
Apr 2, 2009

Do you know that once way back in time Cleo's Needle fell down. The Army Corps of Engineers erected a big crane and hoisted it back up onto it's resting place and as well placed the large iron spike that keeps it all level..... Whoops....... the 1st of April was yesterday........

By jay.kalamazoo
From: kalamazoo, mi
Oct 19, 2009

i got the top and the my second was coming up. the tower starts to wiggle....i think...i'll jump into those trees if this thing falls...that will help break my fall. And then i realize....i'm anchored into the top of the needle...and if it goes, i'm going with it.

much like the gendarme at seneca, climbing this thing is a must and a exercise in faith.