This is a nice route to do after leading the Queen's Throne (which is an easy and really fun 5.4). Lead up the Queen's Throne. Use some webbing to anchor yourself around the spire at the top. Topside belay your second and have him clean the pitch. Then dump a #7 cam in one of the big cracks by the belay stance. There are some smaller cracks closer to the edge that should take a #4 cam. Use the webbing around the spire for your bomber anchor and equalize the two cams for a backup. I'm sure there are plenty of other ways to set up this top rope, but this worked well for me. Throw your rope over the edge that faces the lake, rap off, and you're all set to climb.
Queen's Face is a wake up call at 5.8 after Queen's Throune at 5.4...but that's a good thing. Climb the two parallel flared cracks that go almost all the way to the top. Expect very thin, balancy foot holds. The crux is pretty close to the ground, around the fourth or fifth move. There is a real positive rest hold about half way up. After that, shoot for the top.
You could probably lead this, but like I said, the crux is awful close to the ground and it's really easy to set up a top rope. It's up to you. Overall, a real nice route. It's worth doing a couple of laps on it.
Protection
Standard top-rope gear. Some webbing for sure(a thirty-footer would be nice). I also used a #7 and a #4 cam.
A group of us did this climb (or variations of it) on Sept 16, 2006. It was a lot of fun! The beginner climbers tended to start on the far right side, traverse over to the left about half-way up to get to a large ledge on the left side. Then, we worked our way back to the right side to get to the top.
Leading this isn't too bad. Lots of thin moves to bigger holds where you can mess around trying to find a crack big enough to put a piece into. You do have to be careful on the opening moves before you get any gear in as falling onto the pointed rock at the base wouldn't feel nice. Bring mostly small pieces though as I didn't use anything larger than a #1 C3 (although I could have missed something).
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