Please note that the New Sandstone area is currently closed to climbing.
The classic Donkey on my mind move.
Description
Donkey On My Mind is the clean cut overhanging dihedral on the left side of the wall. It is the best protected .12 in the park, as well as one of the purest crack climbs. The start takes some effort and leads quickly to the crux which will force you to drop the clutch/crotch. While cranking the feet up to your ears may be easier for shorter folks, the near everlasting reach above will keep things even. While this route is a one trick pony, it is also one of the best tricks you will do.
Protection
A few cams (a #1 camalot for the top), some medium wires.
One the safest 5.12 leads in the park, my only 5.12 lead at the lake, but not clean, it was closed so after, never got the redpoint, they say this route got 1 to 2 letter grades easer, after sticky rubber came out,
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