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Has Been 

5.10c

   

FA: First lead: Steve Sangdahl
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Season: Spring/Fall
Views: 332 page views

Submitted By: James M Schroeder on Sep 6, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: Has Been is the face between Wobbly Dihedral and C...



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Leading "Has Been".

Leading "Has Been".


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By James M Schroeder
From: FIB town USA
Sep 6, 2006

Has Been exists in the face between Wobbly D and Chez's Chimney. It is surprisingly good for being so often overlooked. Basically the idea is to thrutch up the face towards the giant cobble 2/3 of the way up on the left side of the route. Once the cobble is attained the route softens, but until then it is a stiff endeavor.

By Leo Hski
Nov 27, 2006

The name was Sangdahl's response to my poor attempts at drunken humor one night in the Avalon- I had foolishly (and erroneously) called the DLFA a "bunch of has-beens". Steve led this route the next day, and made me a member of the DLFA the following week.

It was a glorious ride downhill from there!

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Oct 20, 2008
rating: 5.10c

This was a superb climb. Now that I have climbed it, I would put it up there with my favorite climbs in the Old Sandstone.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Oct 21, 2008
rating: 5.10c

Description:

Has Been starts with some underclings into a few reachy moves. The climb slowly moves left on the face until you reach the middle. This is the crux. Figuring out the sequence here is key. Once you get into it, a few small crimps will pull you through to the large cobble. Once the cobble is reached, the climbing is much easier, around 5.9 or so.

By Nick Rhoads
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.10c PG13

Yea, definitely overlooked. I went for the OS but whipped on the only good gear on the route, thankfully.

The first horizontal is where the good gear is, this will protect the crimpy crux to a nice ledge for a no hands rest. The next horizontal provides one good C3 and the climbing eases considerably from there. "R" rated for the runout.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 7, 2009
rating: 5.10c

Did you send clean after the whipper?

By Nick Rhoads
Aug 7, 2009
rating: 5.10c PG13

Yep, sent later. I just pumped out of the first try and the crimp section has a definite easy sequence to it, but I missed it on the first try.