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American Beauty Crack 

5.8

   

FA: R. Bechler, S. Sangdahl
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
Views: 586 page views

Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Oct 11, 2001


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BETA PHOTO: American Beauty Crack is the right-most crack. Ev...


Description 

The American Beauty Crack can be found just to the right of the Pacific Ocean Wall and Seven Seas. The crack sits on the inside of a 35-foot slightly overhanging right angle dihedral and is perfect for practicing your lieback moves or handjamming. The crux is at the slight overhang about halfway up the route.


Protection 

Standard Rack for leading. For top-rope bring long slings.



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By Anonymous
Mar 28, 2002

f.a. rich bechler and steve sangdahl

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 24, 2008
rating: 5.8

This was a great route. Perfect laybacks all the way up. This climb is often overlooked. Get on it.

By Marty Combs
Sep 6, 2008

A Short but great lead. It was my first lead at Devil's lake several years ago. It eats pro, and it has a few great stances to rest and place gear.

By Ta-Chi Wang
May 24, 2009
rating: 5.9

Layback may work on this beauty, but become a doubtful strategy when leading it. Tape your hand well if you get a small hand like I do, for on the half way up the wide crack fist-jamming become necessary.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 6, 2009
rating: 5.8

I have to agree Ta-Chi. I just led this last friday, still nice laybacks, but when placing gear, I jammed to steady myself. Fun lead!