Tricky and overhanging crack followed by jugs higher up. The crux is avoiding pumping out at the right facing corner below the small roof but it's far from over after that. Skinny fingers come in handy. Fun route.
Location
Detached tower at the end of the Horse Rampart. 40 ft past Via Apia.
Protection
The route protects very well. Small to medium nuts, medium to large Aliens or Camalots up to #2. Additional #4 Camalot is very useful in protecting the lower part.
Not much to look at it, tucked away in a little corner of Horse Rampart (the area was originally known as "Saddle Rocks," a pun of sorts?), this is easily one of the ten best 5.9's at the Lake. And very leadable.
Here is the description from the Climbers and Hikers Guide to Devils Lake (1970):
MUNG, F9A. This is the crack system on the N face of the buttress. The protection is good, provided you don't fall off trying to place it. This climb is best broken up into 12 foot pitches. First ascent by Peter Cleveland and Roger Wiegand, using one bivouac.
Yes!! Agreed! This is one of the best routes for the grade at DL. It's a challenge but takes excellent gear..... Avoiding the temptation to bivi (or merely rest briefly)at the tree ledge halfway can be an added difficulty..... I should have figured it was Pete C. who gave it it's name.... sounds very fitting.
Thanks guys! I like the idea of breaking the route into 12 foot pitches. There's a great bivy spot just below the crux, which can be reached by stepping off the route 4 feet to the left.
Pumpy for sure. I was pumping out and my left foot desperately needed a good hold, I was pissed at myself for stepping on the ledge with my left foot, but glad to hear that is on. I only had my left foot there for about a minute or so and then continued on. Great climb and great gear.
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