BETA PHOTO: Debauchery (12), Primak's Surprise (13), and Pleth...
Description
Primak's Surprise is found at the inside corner to the right (south) of Debauchery. Climb the inside corner using holds on either side. Once near the top either skirt under the shrub or climb up and left to finish using the top of Debauchery.
So the long tradition of not reporting the rating in order to not spoil the surprise has been abandoned. I always wondered what the consensus rating would be, but still seems a pity to let the uninitiated in on the surprise.
Primak's Surprise should get at least one more star. It is a great lead and no give away for the grade. Speaking of the grade? If one stays on line when leading up this route (meaning- climbs along the entire natural corner and crack line from bottom to top) it is a bit harder then 5.6 I would have to say. Is this in fact Primak's actual surprise?
I agree Burt...staying true to the crack is tougher...
By Glenn Gordon From: Buffalo Grove, Illinois Sep 11, 2009 rating: 5.6
This is a great lead and will take lots of pro. I really enjoyed this route a lot. The guidebook description is right on the money. Every time you hit the "crux" it is followed up by another one LOL. Stick with the natural line up the corner crack and you'll have a very enjoyable climb.