Mountain Project: Climbing Devil's Lake > East Bluff

Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 15, 2002
Administrators: Jay Knower, Chris treggE
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Description

This area, located above the railroad tracks on the East shore of the lake includes Waterfall Wall, Railroad Ampitheater, Lumby Ridge, Birthday Rocks, Horse Rampart, Lothar's Ledges, and Squirrel's Nest Tower. The area is perhaps the most easily accessed group of rocks at the lake. Notable climbs include Pine Tree Step-Across, Birthday Crack, and Roger's Roof.

Getting There

To get to the rocks above the railroad tracks, park at the north end of the South Shore parking lot. Head north towards the railroad tracks via a paved walkway. Once you get to the tracks follow them north along the east shore of the lake. After 5-10 minutes of walking you will see a large electric fence (more of a net) to your right. Railroad Ampitheater is approximately 150 feet past the end of this fence, while Birthday rocks is directly above the fence. Horse Rampart is a little higher up the bluff toward the southeast from Birthday Rocks. Lothar's Ledges are straight up the talus slope from the south end of the electric fence, and Squirrel's Nest Tower is directly south of Horse Rampart.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Bluff - Railroad Tracks:

Birthday Chimney 5.3 Trad, TR Birthday Rocks

The Horse 5.4 Trad, TR Horse Rampart

Pine Tree Dihedral 5.5 Trad, TR Railroad Amphitheater

Pine Tree Step-Across 5.6 R Trad, TR Railroad Amphitheater

Primak's Surprise 5.6 Trad, TR Horse Rampart

The Pillar 5.6 Trad, TR Railroad Amphitheater

Via Apia 5.7 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Horse Rampart

Birthday Crack 5.7 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet Birthday Rocks

Lechery 5.8 Trad, TR Horse Rampart

Caesarian Tower 5.8 Trad, TR Birthday Rocks

Debauchery 5.8 TR Horse Rampart

Roger's Roof 5.8 Trad, TR Horse Rampart

Mung 5.9 Trad, 70 feet Horse Rampart

Catenary Crack 5.9 Trad, TR Railroad Amphitheater

Jack the Ripper 5.10c Trad, TR Railroad Amphitheater

Cop-Out 5.11a Trad, TR Railroad Amphitheater

Caesarian West Face 5.12c TR Birthday Rocks

Featured Route For East Bluff - Railroad Tracks

Devils Lake. Henning Boldt leading Debauchery (the lower right variation). September, 2008.

Debauchery 5.8 WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Horse Rampart

Debauchery (n): Extreme indulgence in sensuality (orgy). Sounds like the guys that named these climbs spent too much time climbing.To climb Debauchery use the corner to make your way up to the ledge at 25 feet. Climb above ledge on ledges and into a curved dihedral. Climb dihedral to the top....[more] Browse More Classics in WI

Comments on East Bluff - Railroad Tracks

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By Nat Blaz
Apr 6, 2002

A classic climb for beginners at Devil's Lake!

By Craig Le May
Jan 23, 2003

The Amphitheater is definitely a must if you are looking for a good Climb, when I was climbing this was the spot. It was an excellant spot to climb when the park was busy, no one went there to much, most climbers were enthralled with the bigger walls. Just above the amphitheater My old climbing partner Paul Nowak and I found a couple of Good 5.7,5.8 climbs and Bouldering areas. One we named Shooting the Moon, and rated it about a 5.7, not to hard, but a lot of nice micros and cracker ledges. This may already may have a name, we never found it in the booklet though. I would be interested to hear if anyone else discovered this treasure.

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