Tom Anderson-Brown on the apron of Jungle Gym Towe...
Description
Jungle Gym is HIGHLY recommended. If you've never climbed in the Doorway Rocks area you should make the trip there for this climb. The climb can be done in two to three pitches.
First pitch: Climb up any of the routes on the Seventh Buttress (routes 91-96) to start. Ascending the Seventh Buttress will put you at the base of No Rest For the Wicked (route 98).
Second pitch: To keep this climb in the 5.4 range go left around No Rest For the Wicked and climb up the blocky apron of Jungle Gym Tower. Climb up on easy cracks and slabs. Once the terrain steepens, head for the wide, subtle dihedral to the left of a "prow-shaped" roof. Do a nice mantle (look for the piton), climb through the dihedral, and arrive at the top of Jungle Gym Tower.
Options: To add more pitches to this climb you could lead No Rest For the Wicked (very little pro), or you could go right around No Rest For the Wicked and climb up route 97, a short inside corner with good pro. To extend the climb further on top, make Devil's Doorway your final pitch.
Protection
Standard rack. Medium and large stoppers and cams, half dozen quick draws, 3-4 slings, etc.
After the mantle, which can be protected by placing a piece in the crack that holds the old rusty pin, be careful of the large loose blocks above as you proceed to the top. Heading out onto the East Face route from beneath the big roof will avoid the loose stuff, but it's definitely not as satisfying as making the strenuous and exposed mantle move on the regular route. This is one of the best multi-pitch climbs at the lake.
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