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Doorway Rocks - Major Mass
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Dippy Diagonal 

5.7

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Views: 870 page views

Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Apr 3, 2002


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Not thats what I call a good nut placement!


Description 

Dippy Diagonal is a nice hand jam crack located west of the Keyhole below the South Platform. Climb up crack about 3 feet right of the inside corner (Kenosis, rt# 63). The wall gets steeper toward the top of the crack. Either stop at the large ledge or continue up to the top on Kenosis.


Protection 

Standard Rack



Photos of Dippy Diagonal Slideshow Add Photo
Hard Times (59), Wicker Man (61), Dippy Diagonal (62), Kenosis (63), and Sure Shot (64)

BETA PHOTO: Hard Times (59), Wicker Man (61), Dippy Diagonal (...

The start of Dippy D.

The start of Dippy D.

Looking down on the upper half of Dippy Diagonal.

Looking down on the upper half of Dippy Diagonal.

Dippy Diagonal is the clearly defined crack in the middle of the wall.

BETA PHOTO: Dippy Diagonal is the clearly defined crack in the...

From the top of Dippy you can follow the rope line in this pic to the left and over a gully to a nice second pitch with 5.8 climbing. You can see Rhoads at the crux of the second pitch with about 30ft of route hidden from view.

BETA PHOTO: From the top of Dippy you can follow the rope line...


Comments on Dippy Diagonal Add Comment
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By Craig McCudden
May 20, 2003

This right here is a SWEET moderate lead, Gobbles up nuts, & hold Galore.

It's a little off the beaten path but worth the effort to find it.

By Jim McGuire
Dec 12, 2003

A very well protected lead indeed as is Kenosis as well, but I would characterize the crack as more hand size than finger.

By Ian Schmit
Nov 6, 2006
rating: 5.7

Definitely a hand crack. Great stances every few feet to place gear. Protects well with nuts and hexes. Excellent moderate lead.

By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Aug 6, 2007
rating: 5.7

The first time I climbed this route, I led it on-sight and it felt a little stiffer than 5.7. Now after TRing it several times I agree that it's Devil's Lake 5.7. For new leaders, Kenosis 5.4 the inside corner right to the left is a good beginner's lead and you can set up TR and play on Dippy after you top out.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 20, 2008
rating: 5.7

I just led this on sight tonight. I didn't have my guide book, but it looked like a great line. And it sure was! I agree that it felt a bit harder than 5.7

By Jeremy Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 21, 2008

I remember this as being pure fun, plain and simple... While in the area check out Hammer Crack too. Step it up just a bit with TM Overhang.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 22, 2008
rating: 5.7

I was actually headed there for TM overhang, but felt like leading something instead. I can climb 5.10 pretty comfortably, but I haven't lead anything over 5.9 yet. I will get back there for TM overhang for sure. My buddy still wants to do Dippy Diagonal after I told him how good it was.

By Doug Hemken
From: Madison, WI
Sep 8, 2008

Pro: great route to use your hexes on.

By Sarah K
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 19, 2009

A little tough for a beginner leader. Many places to put a #3 camalot.