Der Glotz is a great route situated between Watermarks and Sunken Pillar. It follows a right-trending diagonal ledge up to some tough moves up along the left side of the zig-zag overhangs of Watermarks Left Side. To climb get up onto the diagonal ledge (ledge is about 2" wide) and use careful hands to work right until ledge runs out. At the top of the ledge reach up to a rectangular pocket. Pull up on this pocket and move your feet up so you can get your feet up into this pocket. From here there are 2-3 side-pull holds. Pull and lean right, and move up past zig-zag overhangs to easier terrain.
To set up the Top Rope for this climb your anchor should be directly below the Balanced Rock.
I climbed 'Der Glotz' with the winter-weiry locals on a warm Feb 29, 2003 not expecting much other than a warm-up for Morning After(10d)/Morning Before(11d) lines (not sure what is what over there since all the tape is gone) and then Moondust(11b), and ended up amazed by how fun and crazy the moves get! Kudos to the routesetter. Best 5.9 I've ever been on anywhere (outdoors, that is)!
Next best climb in the Balanced Rock area, in my opinion, is the unlisted 15 foot block face above the ledge that Moondust finishes on. Roughly a 5.10c/d, bring your long arms.
Climbed it this weekend. After climbing through the morning on Saturday I was too burnt to nail the crux (yep, a little outa shape). Went back Sunday morning and nailed it on my second attempt. Awesome view from the top this time of year too (better of course after climbing then when setting up an anchor...). Haven't been climbing that long and this was a good confidence booster.
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