East Bluff - Far West End

BETA PHOTO: A view of the far west end of the East Bluff from ...

Description 

The far west end of the East Bluff contains the very popular Balanced Rock Wall, along with the more obscure Balanced Rock Ridge, Liederkranz, Hole-In-The-Wall, The Slab, and The Effie. The area is easily surveyed from the South Shore parking lot. The Balanced Rock Wall contains what many say is the classic climb at the Lake, Watermarks (5.8). Above the Balanced Rock Wall is the Balanced Rock Ridge, a seldom-visited ridge containing a series of short scrambling pitches. To the immediate east of the Balanced Rock Wall are Liederkranz and Hole-In-The-Wall, two smaller areas with interesting climbs. There are also two formations, The Slab and The Effie, at the top of the talus field midway between the Balanced Rock Wall and Devil's Doorway. These rocks contain a handful of shorter climbs.

Getting There 

To get to the East Bluff - Far West End, park at the South Shore parking lot and follow the paved walkway to the railroad tracks. Just past the railroad tracks you will find the junction of two trails. To the left is the Balanced Rock Trail, to the right is the Grottos Trail. To get to the Balanced Rock Wall, Balanced Rock Ridge, Liederkranz and Hole-In-The-Wall turn left and hike up the rock steps of the Balanced Rock Trail. About halfway up the bluff you will encounter the Balanced Rock Wall (can't miss it!). Top-Rope access can be gained by going around the northwest end of the wall. The Liederkranz can be accessed by walking around the east end of the Balanced Rock Wall and up the gully about 100 ft. To get to the Hole-In-The-Wall continue 200 ft east past the Liederkranz and slightly up the bluff. Finally, The Slab and The Effie can be found by taking the Grottos Trail to the right just after passing over the railroad tracks at the bottom of the bluff. Walk east on this scenic trail until you're about halfway between the Balanced Rock Wall and Doorway Rocks. Scramble up to the top of the talus field where you'll find a 35 ft slab (The Slab), with The Effie just above it.

The Classics

Featured Route For East Bluff - Far West End

Morning After 5.10d PG13  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Balanced Rock Wall

Locate the thin, discontinuous crack to the right of Watermarks. This is Morning After, and in my opinion, the best route on the wall. The crux involves switching from laying back one side of the crack, to laying back the other. The movement on this climb, the tricky footwork, forces the climber into an elegant vertical dance. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of East Bluff - Far West End Slideshow

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The Balanced Rock. Photo: Bob Horan Collection.