A superb climb. Start same as Sometime Crack but at the niche half way up, continue straight up the face instead of angling to the right. The holds are good on the face, until the last move...
Protection
#1 or #2 camalots down low, a #3 I think in the horizontal in the niche at mid height, and a medium alien or TCU just below the niche. You could put a small TCU in thin crack right above the niche. Runout at the top.
Runout on the top section. Well protected down low. The route is overhanging, so a fall from high would most likely be clean. I left it as "R" for the description, some might argue "PG13"-- just have fun and be safe.
Leo gave me credit for the FA in his guide but I remember the first time it was TR better. Scott Stewart was showing Steve Wunsch around. Steve went up for it with a big lunge. Scott who had a sore finger had to protect the DL climbing reputation so he went up. He repeated the lunge but his feet came off the wall. He swung out but was still hanging on. With the overhang he had one chance to stick it when he swung back in --- and he did. It took us a little while to get rid of the lunge so I don't think anyone else repeated it that day.
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