BETA PHOTO: The start of Brinton's Direct is to the left of t...
Description
Brinton's Direct is an excellent variation to the mega-classic Brinton's Crack. Rather than traversing right at the alcove (a la Brinton's Crack), Brinton's Direct forges a bold path straight up the face. These tenuous and airy moves lead directly (hence the name) to the top of the buttress.
On lead, the climb protects fairly well, but it's just run-out enough to give it that unique Devil's Lake feel. All in all, The Direct is a very worthwhile route on one of the best chunks of stone in the park.
We always used to start a few more feet to the left of that dihedral at the very thin crack. This start is not quite visible behind the belayer's boulder in the photo. These thin cracks go directly up to the hand crack below the alcove. Brinton's Direct also makes for a great aid climb. ABQ.
By Mike Lopera From: Eugene, OR Aug 3, 2004 rating: 5.8+
Pro up to the alcove is the same as for Brintons crack. After the alcove the crack is thin and there are a few good placements. Use small nuts (BD # 4-5) and alliens for this section. I found particularly useful a orange allien (1.5) and a blue allien(0.375). The blue allien protects te crux after the undercling and sidepull holds. For belay there is a good stance just before topping out. The belay can be set up on uppermost the horizontal crack after the ledge. crack takes cams and nuts up to 0.5in.
By Mike Lopera From: Eugene, OR Aug 3, 2004 rating: 5.8+
This is an excellent lead to spice up after climbing Brintons crack.
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