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DescriptionThe East Rampart is the most popular climbing area at Devil's Lake. It is a quarter-mile long cliff band containing the highest concentration of climbs at the park. This may or may not be a good thing, depending on how many people you like around you when you climb. The area undoubtedly contains some of the finest climbs at the Lake, and the climbs are generally long (some over 100 feet) and exposed. You are apt to find that no matter how early you've come to climb that famous route someone else has already claimed it. But rest assured, there are plenty of other classics to choose from in the event you arrived a little too late. You'd be crazy to avoid the area solely because of the crowds. This is, after all, the most popular climbing area at the park for a reason. Getting ThereTo get to the East Rampart park at the CCC parking lot and cross the road to pick up the CCC hiking trail. The trail consists of rock steps that climb through the woods and up the talus field for a good 15-30 minute hike. When you get to "The Monster", a 20 foot wall, take a left at the "T" in the trail until you get to the "Pedestal Buttress". At this point, you can turn right and around D'Arcy's Buttress to access the top of the cliff (and many access gullies) or you can go left to access the bottom of the cliff. Go right only if your climb is located at "Many Pines Buttress" or east. If your climb is west of there, take the upper trail and descend to the base of the climb via the "Leaning Tower" gully. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Bluff - East Rampart:
Brinton's Crack 5.6 Trad Brinton's Buttress
Coatimundi Crack 5.6 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 125 feet Bill's Buttress
Peter's Project 5.7 Trad, TR Many Pines Buttress
Orgasm 5.8 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet Rainy Wednesday Tower
Brinton's Direct 5.8 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90 feet Brinton's Buttress
Birch Tree Crack 5.8 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet Pedestal Buttress
Upper Diagonal 5.9 Trad, TR Pedestal Buttress
The Stretcher 5.9+ TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Pedestal Buttress
Sometime Crack 5.10a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet Pedestal Buttress
Congratulations 5.10a Trad, TR Pedestal Buttress
Cheatah 5.10b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 120 feet Bill's Buttress
Sometime Direct 5.10d R Trad, 60 feet Pedestal Buttress
Alpha Centauri 5.10d Trad, 100 feet Hawk's Nest
Flake Route 5.10d PG13 Trad, TR Pedestal Buttress
Thoroughfare 5.11a Trad Two Pines Buttress
Flatus 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Many Pines Buttress
D.L.F.A 5.11 Trad, 29 pitches, 290 feet, Grade VI Pedestal Buttress
Gill's Nose 5.11c TR Gill's Buttress
Acid Rock 5.12a TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Gill's Buttress
Bagatelle 5.12c/d R TR Pseudo Hawk's Nest
Featured Route For East Bluff - East Rampart
 Route starts down at lowest point of Bill's Buttress at buttress prow between route "Agnostic" to the right and route "Coatimundi" to the left. The starting moves are unprotected and perhaps a bit hard for the grade and folks usually step into the climb via crack and mantle move from the right a bit. Climb thin crack from said ledge that has both slopey as well as angular footholds around it to a horizontal hold at point of base of loose block....[more] Browse More Classics in WI
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